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Showing posts with label Health. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Health. Show all posts

June 01, 2026

An After-Hours Sound Bath Among the Mattresses: Retail Therapy, LA Style

"I love LA," said the woman next to me, as she gathered up her crystals and folded up her sheet. We'd slept next to each other, on two neighboring mattresses, during a sound bath conducted inside the Mattress Central store in Atwater Village. And then we went our separate ways.

 

December 29, 2025

Top Posts of 2025

Boy, it's been a rough year. Between writing my first book, struggling to manage my celiac disease, and losing my sense of smell and trying to conquer long Covid—all with no health insurance—it's been a lot. 

I tend to thrive in chaos, but at some point I just shut down. And that's what happened after I finished writing my manuscript (while I was sick with Covid, might I add). I just couldn't do anything else.

I've slowly tried to put my apartment back together after two years of neglect. I cleaned under the bed (where my cat hides and sometimes pukes) for the first time in I don't know how long. I still have to change my windshield wipers and put a cover on my car backseat and figure out why my turntable doesn't work and sand down my built-in cutting board. 

Oh and now that I'm 50, I've got to get a pneumonia vaccine and a mammogram. And a follow-up colonoscopy. 

And a permanent job that provides benefits.

With all of this going on, I've managed to blog a little this year—much less than I'd like, and much less than what I have to blog about. Funnily enough, this year also brought some of the highest traffic I've ever had—and, for the first time, to posts that aren't solely about Southern California. 

It's nice to see my Nevada and Northern California posts getting some well-deserved attention!

In case you missed any of them, here are my top posts of 2025—featuring a little architecture, a lot of adventure, and a bit of personal sadness, too.


 

September 06, 2025

A Matter of Taste

With all the work that I've been doing writing The Los Angeles Breakfast Club centennial history book over the last two years, it's no surprise that I would get sick.

Having two autoimmune diseases puts me in the crosshairs for various illnesses anyway—but then I went to the Lady Gaga concert at the Forum—the first such thing I'd done in a long time—and I think that's where I caught a bug. 

But this wasn't just any bug. What started as a loss of appetite, sore throat, and the sniffles turned into the worst headache of my life—one that almost sent me to the emergency room.


July 14, 2024

A Foodie's Farewell Tour

I have this little ritual of going for a "last supper" before having some kind of medical procedure done that might restrict my eating in some way. 

I think it goes back to when I used to go on a "detox" back in my NYC days, which was basically my way of trying to lose weight by quitting alcohol and fast food for short spurts of time. I'd always binge right before it, like an addict on one last bender before being hauled off to rehab.

Before my oral surgery last November, which would put me on a diet of soft foods for weeks on end, I ordered all the crunchy things during my final meal—chips and guac, Caesar salad with croutons, taquitos, and the like. 

I had similar "last hurrahs" the nights before my colonoscopy in February, another oral surgery in March, and my upper endoscopy in June (both the one that didn't happen, and the one that did). 

But now, it's the results of that endoscopy that's got me on my latest eating spree. 

Because they found what they were looking for: signs of celiac disease. It's not definite, but I already scored practically off the charts on the blood test. Both of these test results strongly indicate the presence of the disease, but they don't prove it.

To do that, I'll need to eliminate gluten.

If I feel different—or, hopefully, better—after that, it'll confirm the diagnosis. And it'll change the course of how I eat for the rest of my life.

Smoked salmon sandwich at Gjusta in Venice, CA

April 01, 2024

It's Been a Rough Year (And It's Only April)

I fell in public today, messily, spilling popcorn all over an already-wet or -greasy polished floor at the movie theater, wailing in pain and sobbing.

An older gentleman (well, older than me) named Rick asked my name and tried to comfort me as the woman he was with tracked down some ice.

"It's been a rough year," I told him.

"And it's only April," he said.


I started off 2024 with a big hole in my head, empty spaces left behind from the molars that had been extracted last November. 

September 05, 2023

Photo Essay: Hanging Out In 'Hangtown,' Or Maybe Getting Sick in Placerville

Now that I've got some distance from it, I've been thinking a bit about what happened in the days before I came down with COVID-19 last year. 

I'm still not sure where I caught it, or how—but since I was traveling and bopping around to a lot of different spots, I may never know.

 
It was 4th of July weekend, and I was headed up to the Great Western Steam-Up in Carson City, Nevada. But first, I made a pit stop at the tiki bar in Sacramento (a.k.a. The Jungle Bird) and spent the night in the "Gold Rush" town of Placerville, California.

September 03, 2023

A Nightmare Come True

Image by Marcela BolĂ­var from Pixabay  

Over the last couple of years, maybe a few years, I've had this recurring dream. Well, actually, it's two recurring dreams. 

In one, I've got a mouthful of glass shards that I'm trying to spit out. I haven't been chewing on the glass, so I don't know how the broken pieces got in there—but I'm desperate to get them out. I'm opening my mouth to let them fall out; I'm wriggling around my tongue and stretching out my lips to dislodge them; I'm reaching in with my fingers to pull them out. 

But with every bit of glass that's removed, more arrives in its place. 

July 23, 2023

Getting It Over With

I fall upon the thorns of life! I bleed! - "Ode to the West Wind" by Percy Bysshe Shelley

Image by Claudia from Pixabay

I've lived with both physical and emotional pain for most if not all of my life. So I don't shy away from things that might hurt me—maybe to a fault.

I've just always assumed that life is pain and that if I want to live fully, it's gonna hurt. 

But there is an exception: I have an unreasonable fear of getting stung by a bee

I've chronicled here some instances where I've literally turned around and aborted mission when I've encountered a swarm of bees, or when I was trapped and did the heebie-jeebie dance just to get away from bees trying to drink droplets of sweat off my shirt in the desert.

And I made it nearly 48 years without getting stung by anything—until yesterday. 

September 14, 2022

Taking My Punishment

Image by Edward Lich from Pixabay 

As a child who was wrongfully accused and convicted of a number of household crimes—from scratching my mother's wooden rocking chair and new bathroom wallpaper to pitting the cover of a borrowed paperback book on the kitchen counter—I learned early on how to shut up and take my punishments.

May 12, 2022

Pandemic Reflections: My Body Is My Own

The last two years have been so crazy, we're still making sense of them. They probably won't make much sense to any of us for decades to come. 

But very early on, it became clear that one of the silver linings of mandated "social distancing" was the fact that I got my personal space back. 


April 15, 2021

Pandemic In the Rear View?


Almost two weeks ago, I went back to Six Flags Magic Mountain to get my second shot of the COVID-19 vaccine. 

March 16, 2021

A Shot Towards Ending the Pandemic

I'd marked the date "March 15" on my calendar—that was the date that I would become eligible for the COVID-19 vaccine. 

I'd signed up for all the notifications, but I didn't trust that they would actually notify me in any timely manner. 

And I'd already completely lost trust in my primary care physician in LA, who's lost my test results before and forgotten that I'd been in for a physical—likely distracted by her stint on reality TV. (But that's a story for another day.) 

So, I knew it would be up to me to sign up to get the jab the moment the spots opened up online. 

I tried to book an appointment a few days before just to see what would happen. I reached the equivalent of an internet brick wall. 

But on the night of Sunday, March 14, I saw a message online that indicated that spots for the new eligibility tier had opened up early—and in the hour before midnight, I began clicking around to find a place to get the shot. 

Patience isn't one of my virtues. After trying two of the local hospitals and one of the local pharmacies, I gave up and typed in "Valencia, CA" as my location.
 

March 13, 2021

Upon the One-Year Anniversary of the Pandemic Times

"How long do you think this is gonna go on?" my friend asked.

"At least a couple of months," I said, despite the authorities telling us it would only be three weeks. 

"Really? That long, you think?" she said. 

"Oh yeah."

 Warner Grand Theatre, San Pedro (taken 4/25/20)

November 04, 2020

On Being Tested

Well, it was bound to happen. I'm surprised it took so long.  

 
I finally went for my first drive-thru COVID-19 test. 
 
 
I hadn't been exposed—at least, not as far as I know—but I'm slated to possibly make a guest appearance at a reality TV show taping next week. And like any responsible production, they wanted to make sure I wasn't contaminated. 

 
Honestly, I'd thought I would've gotten sick by now. After having been such a sickly kid—and after having caught every cold, flu, sinus infection, and pneumonia while living in New York State—I just assumed I was a sitting duck for the coronavirus. 

 
And although I don't know that I've come in contact with anyone who's been infected, I still got pretty nervous as I drove through the testing site at the local VA campus. I chuckled at how it was set up like the parking lot at Disneyland—or like one of those drive-thru haunts that made their debut this Halloween. 

 
I've never even gotten tested for the flu—not to mention something so much more serious. And it just felt crazy to me to be holding onto my own "BIOHAZARD" bag as I scraped my gums, cheeks, tongue, and throat with a "flocked" swab and placed it into my own specimen jar. 

 
In a movie, all the volunteers (recruited by Sean Penn's C.O.R.E. organization, a.k.a. Community Organized Relief Effort) would've been wearing hazmat suits. Instead, they were hunkered down in makeshift booths handing out bags with those grabbers that old people use. 

 
I got my results the very next day—and fortunately, I tested negative. 

For now. 

But there's no peace of mind that comes with this negative test result. 

Today, I went swimming in Santa Monica and stopped into the swim store to buy a new swim cap. Tomorrow I'll be swimming again. 

And this weekend—well, who knows what I'll encounter?

I'm being as careful as I can be without losing my mind. But am I just delaying the inevitable

Related Posts:

September 04, 2020

Amusing Myself With 19th Century Pneumatic Technology at a 21st Century Bank Branch

"You're everywhere!" people say to me, in response to my pandemic amusements and adventures.

"Yeah," I respond, "But I'm pretty much just in my car..."

I'm now choosing my on-the-road meals based on the nearest drive-thrus. And if I'm not shopping online, I'm picking up items curbside—rolling down a back window or flipping my hatchback up so the store clerk can toss my purchase in and I can drive off without ever getting out from behind the wheel.

I'd thought that making bank transactions would present a challenge—because although I'd found a drive-thru ATM, some banking just requires a real, live teller. Besides, I haven't been thrilled about those touchscreens and buttons that have surely been contaminated by god-knows-what.



And then I found a drive-up teller at a bank branch in Beverly Hills. And to my delight, it had one of those pneumatic tube transport systems for the cars one lane away from the teller's window.



I so clearly remember these from my childhood—when I'd be sitting in the backseat of my dad's car, marveling at those cylindrical containers that carried cash, checks, receipts, deposit slips, and whatnot to and from the driver's side.



It felt like something straight out of The Jetsons. And even though it was created in the 19th century, and is utterly mechanical, it still kind of does seem like fantasy futurism.



Today on my bank run, I could've lined my car up for the teller window—but the car queue for the tubes was just about as long, so I decided to try to relive a little nostalgic bit of my childhood.

There was a difference this time, though. I got to operate the pneumatic system myself—unlatch the cash-carrying cartridge, stuff it with my documents, snap it shut, place it back on the loading dock, and hit the red button.

That's what triggers the plexiglass door to descend and the whoosh of pressured air to transport the carrier up through the conveyor and to a destination unseen from the driver's seat.

Thirty years after I last encountered pneumatic banking (probably), I couldn't quite figure out whether I was supposed to stay at my tube station or proceed to the one in front of me to get my receipt. I hadn't been paying close enough attention to what the cars ahead had done—and for a moment, I felt crippled by the lack of human contact.

With no one behind me, I drove forward to the next docking station and pressed the red button, accidentally sending an empty cartridge to the teller.

Assuming I'd made a mistake, I backed up to the station I'd originally used for my transaction. And then I hear a voice come over a speaker system and say, "I already sent it to the other one."

Was I supposed to go to the other one? Or did the teller send it there from afar because she'd seen me pull up to it?

I don't actually know. And I was too rattled to ask.

Is the carrier sanitized between each use? Probably not. Is it any cleaner than an ATM? Probably.

But if I could catch something from a pneumatic tube, well, I guess that was one risk I was willing to take from inside my car.

At least for today.

Related Posts:
Heading Into Chapter Two of the Coronavirus Pandemic

July 03, 2020

Heading Into Chapter Three of the Coronavirus Pandemic (Orange Alert Edition)

Well, that didn't take long.

Los Angeles bars had been allowed to open for just two weeks before they were ordered to shutter again for at least three weeks.

Indoor dining is also once again verboten.

Our infection rate and hospitalizations are surging like never before. But it's not a "second wave."

We're still in the first wave. And it's getting worse.

The mayor says we're on "Orange Alert," presumably one step (or a few sneezes) away from Red Alert.

DEFCON 2.

Officials are once again telling us to stay home except for essential travel, like to go to work or get supplies. I now dread every trip I have to make to Petsmart or Target to get items I can't get for home delivery (or need more quickly than that). Even curbside pickup stresses me out.

I didn't write much during Chapter Two of the coronavirus pandemic, for two reasons.

First, it only lasted about 20 days.

Second, not much changed for me during those 20 days. In fact, the more that other people began to emerge from isolation, I found myself roaming less and hunkering down more.

Sure, I ate a few meals inside, sitting down at a real table, where someone brought me food to eat on an actual plate.

I wonder if I should regret some of those visits. I wonder what I'll regret as this thing progresses.

I do my best. Not everybody does.

My in-person social interactions have been minimal. I haven't taken a cab, rideshare, or public transportation. I dyed my own hair and gave myself a pedicure. Despite having worsened my clenching habit and given myself a toothache and possibly a case of TMJ, I'm waiting to go to the dentist or an ENT.

I've been touched by another human being exactly three times since March 14, all in the month of June.

I remember each of those tiny and incidental touches vividly.

I think it's going to be a long time before I can get a massage, something that for me is less an indulgence and more of a medical necessity.

If I have to keep my saliva to myself for the foreseeable future, I may die a born-again virgin.

And I'm starting to come to terms with the fact that at some point, I'm probably going to get sick, no matter what I do.

It feels like I'm merely delaying the inevitable. It's hard not to think it might just be better to get it over with now.

Then again, my worst fear would be getting sick and giving it to my cat. And since that's a very real possibility, I'll keep trying my best to stay healthy, at least for him.

If I got sick, there'd be nobody to take care of me.

Worse yet, if I got sick, there'd be nobody to take care of him.

I'm not bored. I'm the opposite of bored.

I'm certifiably overstimulated. Just like I always am.

I've got too much work to do, writing to do, thinking to do. I can no longer distract myself, much less escape myself.

I am facing every thing, every day. Past, present, and future. Remembered and misremembered. Dreamed and hallucinated. Imagined and wished for.

Assessing threats. Wondering when the boat we're all in together is going to sink. Planning my escape route.

I might run out of my prescriptions. The pharmacy might run out of them, too.

But it's not all bad.

On the contrary, getting a three-month reprieve from my "regular" life meant I could actually afford to get my taxes done and buy the designer eyeglass frames I'd spotted at the optician's office back in January.

I got to color my roots bright pink, the way I'd been trying to convince my hairdresser to do for a couple of years now. (And it didn't turn out to be a disaster, though that would've been OK because who do I have to impress right now?)

With my more sedentary lifestyle, a toe I injured back in 2015 is finally getting the chance to heal. I'd forgotten what it felt like for it not to hurt.

Maybe there are some other parts of me that can get patched up while I'm in hiding.

Related Posts:
Heading Into Chapter Two of the Coronavirus Pandemic
Quarantine Angst?

April 20, 2020

My First Outbreak

The coronavirus pandemic may be the biggest outbreak I've been through—but it's not my first.



I'm now forced to recall growing up in Syracuse, New York at a time when wearing sanitary gloves at a restaurant or in a commercial kitchen wasn't required and certainly wasn't common.

And, apparently, neither was washing hands properly.

My parents, sister, and I rarely ever went out to eat at a restaurant—but there was a streak when it seemed like every time we dined out, we got exposed to hepatitis A.

The July 12, 1987 issue of The New York Times reported that Onondaga County—the Central New York county where Syracuse is located—had been besieged by hepatitis after the virus had already broken out in two neighboring counties.

Within one month, six workers at five restaurants had been diagnosed—bringing the total to 54 cases, compared to only 8 during the same time period the year prior.

Now, unlike COVID-19, hepatitis A is generally not deadly. But like the coronavirus, the hepatitis virus can spread by fecal shedding—which means a food handler who pooped and didn't properly wash their hands could infect an entire restaurant.

It happened at a Pizza Hut near Syracuse University. I'm not sure we'd gone to that one.

But it also happened at a Wendy's. And I do remember being forced to eat there as a kid.

And it also happened at Perkins in DeWitt. We could've been exposed there, but I don't remember exactly.

My parents might know. But I haven't talked to them since 2007.

One was definitely at the restaurant at the Ramada Inn in Salina—just outside of Syracuse, near the bank where my dad worked. Back then, the Ramada Inn was a pretty nice place, so we'd gone there for Easter Sunday 1988.

So did 1400 others, who also got exposed.

The outbreak was so bad at one point that Channel 9 interrupted a primetime episode of Perfect Strangers to run a 30-minute special on it.

I remember hearing the news reports warning patrons who drank a beverage with ice in it or ate from the salad bar (i.e. uncooked vegetables, as high heat generally kills the virus). We always qualified. And that meant we had to line up alongside 10,000 other people within the course of a month to go in for our gamma globulin shots, which was supposed to prevent the hep A infection from taking hold.

God, I remember that shot. I don't remember how many of them I got, but there were more than one. And they hurt like a mother.

They were embarrassing to get, too. They shot it into your butt cheek. And for a 12-year-old girl, pulling your pants down in front of anyone was just torture.

Hep A can be pretty contagious—and for the same reasons that the novel coronavirus is. It manifests in symptoms that masquerade as something else.

When it starts out, you might just think you have the flu. With hep A, you don't know yet that your liver is under attack. With COVID-19, you don't yet know that your lungs are in the crosshairs.

The gamma globulin only protects you if you get it within 14 days of exposure. Sometimes the restaurant wouldn't find out about the infected worker and report it in time to get all the exposed people to peel off their pants and expose their fannies for a shot.

As a result of the health crisis, the county enacted new legislation that required food handlers to wear plastic, disposable gloves. It's not that they're any better at protecting us from a virus than a good scrub with soap and water. It's just that the county government couldn't count on the fact that anyone handling food would actually wash their hands properly.

So there was a run on gloves. Restaurant suppliers reported selling 200,000 or 300,000 gloves in just one day.

Still, only 95% of county restaurants actually complied. Some thought it would hurt their business and complained that wearing gloves made it harder to work.

Not surprisingly, when the outbreak was declared "over" in November 1988, and rules were relaxed, more hep A outbreaks followed. And the glove rule was reinstated in 1990 and made permanent in 1992 (though it didn't become a New York State law until 1997).

You couldn't have bake sales at church anymore. You couldn't bring cupcakes for your classmates' birthdays. You just didn't know who was pooping, wiping, and cooking without washing in between.

After I moved out of Syracuse for college in 1993 and then permanently in 1997, I never again had to be told that I'd been exposed to hep A. That's even though food service workers on campus were clearly not wearing gloves (because they didn't have to in neighboring Madison County). That's even after eating countless slices of unsanitary pizza at 5 a.m. in New York City.

I never thought I'd have to think about sanitary gloves again. But now I find myself eyeing gloved workers who handle food and then money and credit cards and POS touch screens and then food again.

And I'm just hoping they change their gloves after going to the bathroom.

There's a lot about this "new normal" that I hope becomes permanent. Is it too much to ask for people to wash their hands properly and wear gloves?

Related Posts:
Quarantine Angst?
A Shot Into Another Dimension

April 14, 2020

Quarantine Angst?

The last time I "went out," so to speak, was a month ago—on Saturday, March 14. I decided to celebrate St. Patrick's Day a little early, in case I wasn't able to the following Tuesday, on the proper date. (Turns out I was right.)

I'd gone out the night before to Tom Bergin's for the same reason.

And out to Lono the night before that because it felt like the last chance I might ever have to go out for tiki again.

By then, events had already started to be canceled. Some businesses had started closing—like the gym where I've been seeing a personal trainer every two weeks for over a year—but miraculously bars and restaurants were still open.

My friends were telling me to stay home. But I wasn't ready yet.

I wasn't sure how I'd respond to being told to "shelter in place"—or, in the case of Los Angeles, that I'd be "safer at home."

After all, I'd been told to—forced to—stay at home for the first 17 years of my life. And I've spent the 27+ years that followed rebelling against that order. 

People who know me would think I'd have a very hard time not going out all the time.

But what's occurred to me in this time of solitary reflection is that I was really made for this. Those first 17 years trained me how to be alone—and how to entertain myself. I'm never so bored that I'm looking for something to do. There's always too much to do. 

So this has been kind of a welcome break for me. I'm not constantly running from here to there. I have time to think and time to feel.

After all, I've been living my life as though someone's going to take it all away from me. I've crammed in as much as I possibly could whenever the opportunity presented itself. 

And while I truly am prone to cabin fever, it's really only when I think I'm missing out on an experience that other people will have or are having. 

If the whole world is shut down, there's nothing to miss. Sure, there's been a litany of cancelations—but most of those events will get rescheduled, eventually. 

Before it all set in, I couldn't comprehend that I'd be OK with any of this. But it turns out that I am.  

So I've been home, writing and organizing photos, working my dayjob as well as my freelance gigs. On paper, it appears to be business as usual.

Things are, of course, different. My usual baseline of existential dread and anxiety has been heightened. Some night terrors have returned. Some nights, it feels as though my heart will pound out of my chest.

But if I've got to be housebound, it might as well be in my charming 1929 Art Deco apartment, with my handsome 6-year-old rescue cat

I've managed to actually lose a little bit of weight—or, at least, maintain it—without dieting or suffering through painful workouts.

I'm lonely, but actually less so than I was before. I'm not having empty conversations with anyone. I'm either connecting with beloved friends or expressing my gratitude to the staff at Bristol Farms and Jersey Mike's who are literally risking their lives so I can still eat. 

Sometimes I worry that I'm getting a little too comfortable with the homebody life. 

This is what I've spent so long cultivating a backlash of.

But honestly, I've done so much—both in life and here in Southern California—that I'm still basking in the glow of those past experiences. Sometimes the new ones eclipse the ones I've just had—so it's nice to relish in them for a little while longer than I normally do.

Although I've been writing during these last four weeks, I've been reticent to write about life in "quarantine"—a word that gets overused in this context.

Very few of us are actually quarantined. We can still get in our cars and drive. Go get donuts on a Saturday. Fill our tanks with gas. Wander the aisles of Target (even if we can't try any of the clothes on just yet).

There's no curfew. No roadblocks or checkpoints. No having to prove that whichever errand you're running is "essential."

Some people, though, truly are suffering. And I haven't wanted to be flippant about that. The current pandemic hasn't "hit home" for me in the way it has for others. But that doesn't make it any less scary.

Here in California, there's a very strong sense of impending doom. But there's a certain familiarity in that—to me, anyway, after having spent the last 9 years trying to prepare myself mentally for an earthquake. 

I've always known "The Big One" was coming. I just didn't think it would be a virus. 

So, a month after initially being "locked down"—which, again, is a huge exaggeration—we've got at least another month to go. 

Who knows when things will return to "normal"?

But maybe I'm OK with whatever changes come. At least, more OK than I ever thought I'd be. 

Related Posts:

January 22, 2020

Dipping Into the Ancient Hot Waters of Tijuana's Thermal Springs

As adventurous as I am, I still sometimes find safety in numbers.



So when my trip to a Tijuana mineral springs with the tour group Turista Libre got canceled last year, I didn't choose to go on my own instead.



I chose to wait—a whole year—until it was offered again.



Before Tijuana became a liquor-soaked destination of legal boozing (and gambling) during Prohibition, its main draw was actually its natural hot springs (agua caliente), formed ages ago by volcanic eruptions and seismic activity.



One such thermal spring (aguas termales) can be found next to the Tijuana River at Valparaiso in the Buenavista neighborhood of Tijuana, where health-seekers and border-crossing tourists have flocked since the late 1940s (according to Newsweek Mexico, 1949). 



Valparaiso—which translates to mean "Paradise Valley"—offers day access to its jacuzzi, outdoor hot springs, sauna, and cool pool, as well as spa therapies like massages.



I went outside of my comfort zone and signed up for a massage without knowing how much it would cost or how to communicate any preferences to my therapist.



Somehow it all worked out...



...and once I was thoroughly worked-over, I was ready to spend some free time exploring the rest of the property.



It's both rustic and tropical, with thatched sun umbrellas...



...and rock-hewn arches, retaining walls, walkways, niches, and more.



The characteristic red dome—part of Valparaiso's logo—is where you'll find the thermal jacuzzi.



It's not a "hot tub" per se—it's much bigger than that, and there are no bubbles or jets to enjoy—and the smell of sulfur in there can be overwhelming.



Silence is required for meditative purposes—but the locals completely disregard that rule and whoop it up in there.



The acoustics are incredible, so the absence of sound would be a shameful waste of the architecture.



The secret about Valparaiso that I found out soon after my massage was over was that there are also hot springs to enjoy al fresco...



...simply by climbing those rock stairways up to the top of the hill.



Up above a kind of mezzanine (or mirador), you reach a flat stone pathway marked by a list of regulations—to wear swimwear and shower first, and to not run or bring glass bottles.



We'd made a beer run at the convenience store near the border, so we were already well-armed with cans. Hopefully boozing it up with cervezas and tequila wouldn't negate the healthful effects of a good mineral soak, in 100-degree waters touted to contain sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and more.



After all, I needed a little boost to my circulation and immune system, for my cells to get oxygenated, and to expel some toxins. My vital organs needed some TLC, my metabolism to get a bit of a kickstart.



Who doesn't need an increased sense of physical and psychological wellness every now and then?

Even if I were to just get a placebo effect out of it, I'd take it.

Technically, I've now got a one-year pass to return to Valparaiso anytime I want—and with it less than three miles from the border crossing at San Ysidro, California, I could, I suppose.

Am I comfortable enough now to go back on my own, sometime within the next 12 months?

Quizás?

Related Posts:
Lessons of a Lone Traveler: Hot Springs Edition
Casting My Fears Aside

September 09, 2019

Up Above and Down Below At Great Basin National Park, No Longer Underwater

I'd wanted to visit Great Basin National Park ever since I learned that this part of the country had once been underwater.



It just took me eight years to get there.



I'd planned on making the drive from Ely, Nevada last year, when I was on my traincation...



...but the Universe had other plans for me...



...and saddled me with some kind of viral infection that knocked me down for the count (and that I barely survived long enough to make the drive to Vegas for my flight back home).



This time, I was with friends who were doing the driving—and it's a good thing, because as we drove up to the Wheeler Peak vista point and parked at the Summit Trailhead for an easy hike to Stella Lake, this time altitude sickness set in.



I tried taking my time through the grove of Quaking Aspen trees (Populus tremuloides)—but at nearly 10,000 feet of elevation, it was too much for me.



My arms felt light lead as I held up my camera to try to catch a speckle-winged rangeland grasshopper (Arphia conspersa) showing the green underside of its wings.



There are bristlecone pines up there—and I spotted a few telltale bristled cones on the ground—but we were too far from any official groves to reach and explore them.



I quickly succumbed to the altitude sickness anyway, lying down in the backseat of our van and gasping for air.



Sometimes I am too delicate for the adventures I'd like to do. But a fellow hiker on the trail said my reaction was common among those who live at sea level.



Fortunately, I felt much more comfortable at the 7000-foot elevation at the entrance of Lehman Cave.



As we descended into the "rooms" and passageways once formed by water, starting with the Gothic Palace...



...I could admire the crystallized stalactites without distraction.



I could gaze up from the Music Room's "pipe organ," 125 feet below the surface, with a 51-foot "ceiling," feeling dizzy and short of breath only in response to its beauty.



Unfortunately, to accommodate tourists like myself, much of the rock (including stalactites and stalagmites) was blasted ages ago and reused to build walls, doorways, and benches (including those of the "Panama Canal").



In an event space once called the "Skating Rink"...



...the points of stalactite formations were chopped off so as not to stab anybody in the head (or poke their eye out).



The only other way in was a belly crawl through a passage known as "Fat Man's Misery."



It's now called the "Inscription Room," in honor of the names and initials written on or burned into the ceiling with graphite, charcoal, or soot—not the marks of any First Nations tribe, but of attendees on Absalom Lehman's tours
from 1885 to 1892.



Back then, it was known as “Lehman’s Wonderful Cave.” And although well-meaning stewards have tried to scrub some of the signatures off, they're now considered a protected cultural resource.



That being said, we were not welcome to add our own inscriptions, and instead were shuffled off through the Cypress Swamp and on to the Grand Palace...



...where we spent a lot of time admiring a marbled formation known as "cave bacon."

Since its discovery by white settlers, Lehman Caves has fascinated people so much that they've thrown parties—and even weddings—down there.

In the mid-1960s, the Army Corps of Engineers designated a room specifically for civil defense shelter use, stockpiling two weeks' worth of rations that included tinned crackers, water cans, medical supplies, and radiation monitoring equipment.

But the cave-dwelling packrats had a field day with the supplies.

And by 1979, the rations hadn't been needed—so they were removed, unused, as efforts shifted to conserving the caves rather than using them for government purposes.

At a constant 50 degrees F, it's certainly comfortable enough down there for hiding out.

And as the longest known cave in Nevada, there'd be plenty of room.

It's no wonder they don't let you down there on your own. You'd get lost. And maybe consumed by bats or pseudoscorpions.

It's worth making the advance reservation for the 90-minute tour—or, in our case, showing up at 7 a.m. to try to get same-day standby tickets.

Related Posts:
The Impersistence of Memory: A Return to the Reopened Mitchell Caverns
Alone in A Crowd, Naturally.