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October 10, 2017

The Formosa Cafe Gets Ready To Step Back Into the Spotlight

One of the most stalwart mainstays of Hollywood nightlife has been the Formosa Cafe...



... located along Route 66, across the street from the movie lot that was, at one time or another, Pickford-Fairbanks Studios, United Artists Studio, or Samuel Goldwyn Studio.


That is, until recently.



The Cantonese-themed bar and restaurant, known for its appearance in the Lana Turner scene in L.A. Confidential, has been closed since January.



But the closure is only temporary, as the 1933 Group—also known for its restorations of Highland Park Bowl and the barrel-shaped Idle Hour—has taken over ownership of it, under the leadership of co-founder Bobby Green. In addition to saving old buildings, Green has relatively quickly established himself as the King of LA Theme Bars (Bigfoot Lodge, Bigfoot West, Sassafras, etc.).



Although the condition of the Formosa Cafe appears to be pretty good, Green says that a lot of the work that needs to be done is on stuff that you can't see.



But the one thing you can see is the old Pacific Electric Red Car trolley-turned-dining room, which needs a little TLC.



That's why the Formosa Cafe is in the running to win preservation funding from the "Vote Your Main Street" competition as part of the National Trust for Historic Preservation's Partners in Preservation program...



...which is being co-sponsored by National Geographic and American Express.



First opened in 1925, Formosa Cafe was more or less family-run from 1945 to 2014. But it's always been kind of a bumpy ride for the movie star haunt.



It was preserved as a historic landmark in the early 1990s when its lease expired and it was threatened with demolition as plans to expand The Lot attempted to encroach on the restaurant's footprint.



In 2004, the developer of the "Gateway" shopping mall next door agreed to build around it after being wooed by its charms.



A decade later, new management took over with a major overhaul of the menu. It was OK then, but it wasn't great.



And then in 2015, the interior was—as its biggest fans claimed—"gutted," with the ceiling having been painted black and the walls being covered with new faux Chinese (but more like Victorian bordello) red velvet wallpaper.



Maybe those in charge thought that they were "modernizing" the vintage eatery.



But these days, everything old is new again. We Angelenos prefer vintage—so much so that even when a new place opens, it does its darnedest to look as though it's been there for ages.



And the Formosa has been there for ages—so why not celebrate that?



As the oldest section of the restaurant, the train car—PE #913, in service from 1902 to 1906—is key to preserving the history of the Formosa.



In fact, when it first opened, the Formosa—then known as The Red Post Cafe—was just that old red streetcar!



Now, of course, the ravages of time are a little more than visible. Its grey roots are growing in, and the crevices of its wrinkles are deepening.



It happens to the best of the Hollywood starlets—but there's no reason that the Formosa should retire from the spotlight.



Not only is there so much history here—including past ties to organized crime (including regulars Mickey Cohen and Bugsy Siegel)—but a lot of what's been done to its interior can be undone. (And fortunately, the infamous safe in the floor still peeks through the laminate flooring that was recently slapped down on top of the original hardwood.)



And Green reports that much of the original decor and memorabilia—including all those photos of all those celebrities who've passed through the doors of the Formosa—were saved from the last (historically inappropriate) renovation.



He's just got to get them back from the last owner.



The fundraising campaign runs through October 31—and, until then, fans of the Formosa can give it up to five votes on a daily basis.



Sure, the Formosa's heyday is long gone—and was so way before I moved to LA in 2011. But I'm hoping that, if its other projects are any indication, the 1933 Group can bring a new heyday to the Formosa.

After all, Hollywood loves a comeback story. And there's still a lot of life left in this ol' girl.

Click to Vote!

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June 28, 2019

Photo Essay: Welcome Back, Formosa Cafe!

Until 2017, one of the most stalwart mainstays of Hollywood nightlife was the Formosa Cafe, located along Route 66...



...across the street from the movie lot that was, at one time or another, Pickford-Fairbanks Studios, United Artists Studio, or Samuel Goldwyn Studio.



The Cantonese-themed bar and restaurant, known for its appearance in the Lana Turner scene in L.A. Confidential, has been closed for two and a half years.



But the closure was only temporary, as the 1933 Group—also known for its restorations of Highland Park Bowl and the barrel-shaped Idle Hour—took over ownership of it.



The nightlife group completely restored the the old Pacific Electric Red Car trolley-turned-dining room...



...and made it actually look like a train again.



Of course, lot of work was done on stuff you can't see, too.



The Formosa Cafe was preserved as a historic landmark in the early 1990s, when its lease expired and it was threatened with demolition as plans to expand The Lot attempted to encroach on the restaurant's footprint. In 2004, the developer of the "Gateway" shopping mall next door agreed to build around it after being wooed by its charms.



It's satisfying to see it survive another preservation threat—and keep the floor safe belonging to Bugsy Siegel intact.



First opened in 1925, Formosa Cafe was more or less family-run from 1945 to 2014.



But the oldest section of the restaurant  the train car—PE #913, in service from 1902 to 1906.



And it's key to preserving the history of the Formosa.



In fact, when it first opened, the Formosa—then known as The Red Post Cafe—was just that old red streetcar!



Fortunately, much of the original decor and memorabilia—including all those photos of all those celebrities who've passed through the doors of the Formosa—was saved from the last (historically inappropriate) renovation.



1933 Group managed to get them back from the last owner.



If there's anything new that's been added, it's hard to tell. The restoration is that seamless.



In fact, the entire back bar area was added on, enclosing an outdoor portion of the restaurant's former iteration.



The pagoda looks as though it could've been there for ages.



And based on the renovations to both the structure and the menu, it looks like the Formosa is ready to have a new heyday.



There's still a lot of life left in this former Hollywood starlet.



And Hollywood sure does love a comeback story.

 
The Formosa Cafe has been in "soft open" for a week...

August 03, 2020

Meet Me at The Formosa (Upstairs On the Patio, For Now)

I'm trying to radically accept the inevitability that some places will never reopen from the "temporary" pandemic closures.



But using the power of my own wallet, I've been fighting hard to keep The Formosa Cafe up and running—ordering more delivery from there than any other single establishment since mid-March.



After all, it spent so many years closed—competing for grant money to fund its restoration—finally reopening just over a year ago to much fanfare.



Fortunately, that renovation preserved a rooftop patio space—one I'd actually never visited under the "old guard" of the Formosa's operations, but I'd been aware of because of the crowd noise coming down from it on certain nights.



Since the only dine-in experience that's allowing right now while dining out is outdoor dining, it was time for me to support this historic institution by finally climbing up those stairs.



With a patio plan already in place, the Formosa had a leg up on other restaurants that have scrambled to expand into their parking lots and sidewalks, some laying down Astroturf and setting up ad hoc tents and other pop-up shelters in a relatively unglamorous fashion.



But at the Formosa, the Mai Tai's taste just as refreshing up there, under amber-glowing lanterns and surrounded by the cafe's custom chinoiserie wallpaper.



The sun dips tipsy into the west and flecks our faces, all aglow in intangible gold. Beneath that, we are rouged in rum.

The breeze up there, it feels like it could sweep almost all our cares away.

The food nourishes and satisfies, even as we put on our masks after finishing one dish and waiting for another to arrive.

We keep everyone at a double-arm's length—everyone, that is, except each other, and except our server.

We've decided it's a risk we're willing to take. But it's about as much risk as we're willing to take—two hours maybe on one night in what seems like forever.

We might not do it again for another four months, or longer.

Or maybe now that we remember the Mai Tais taste better at the Formosa than they do at home—despite being the same Mai Tais—we'll find our way back more quickly the next time around.

Oh, to be able to say, "Meet me at The Formosa," to anyone, anytime.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Welcome Back, Formosa Cafe!