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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query bells. Sort by date Show all posts

June 06, 2015

Photo Essay: Mission of the Lost Bells

If travelers know the unincorporated community of Santa Ysabel at all, it's probably because they passed the tiny town of 1200 people on the way to Julian during apple harvest season.



But Santa Ysabel was once an important area for the Spanish padres, and the missionaries set on bringing Christianity to the local Native Americans. The present day site of the former Indian mission of Santa Ysabel is located just outside the boundaries of the current Santa Ysabel Reservation.

June 12, 2018

Photo Essay: How Bellfounding Helped Build an Unfinished Utopia



I knew about the bells, but only tangentially. I'd never encountered them in person, never heard their din or ding or clatter or cacophony.

I didn't know how musical they'd be.

I've kind of got a thing for bells—church bells and liberty bells and sleigh bells, not to mention bell towers, carillons, and chime towers.

So, while I was in Phoenix for a wedding, I wanted to see how Paolo Soleri's bells were made at his Cosanti studio in Paradise Valley.

Normally, you can take a tour and see a foundry demonstration, but as it was Memorial Day, the studio was open to visitors but had suspended any other programming.

So, I looked around, took some photos, and rang some bells.



Bell design and fabrication wasn't Soleri's first love...



...but his output became so popular that the endeavor funded his true passion, architecture.



Well, not exactly architecture in the traditional sense, but a kind of earth-conscious, experimental bent on building that he called "arcology."



And while the structures at Cosanti Originals give a glimpse into that ecologically utopian built environment that Soleri dreamed of, the only way to truly experience it is to visit his "city"-in-the-making, Arcosanti.



Never one to be satisfied with just a passing encounter, I booked a tour and a room to spend the night.



Located in the Sonoran Desert about an hour north of Phoenix, Arcosanti is a world away.



Born and accredited in Italy, Soleri apprenticed with Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesen West in Scottsdale and Talisen in Wisconsin. But then, upon his return to Arizona, he took Wright's concept of organic architecture and, with it, made a sharp left turn.



And in 1970, he began his experiments in urban planning and living—with, in true FLW style, the help of a number of apprentices and interns who were there to learn from the master.



Originally intended to house 5000 people, it hasn't gotten anywhere close to that—and the extant structures are so old (some nearly 50 years) that most of the incoming funds have to be allocated to maintenance, upkeep, and repairs.



The buildings that have cropped up on the compound are weird and wondrous, to say the least.



It makes you wonder whether they're conversation-starters for the students who've been continuing Soleri's legacy since his passing in 2013—a way to break the ice and inspire them way beyond what they'd ever learn in architecture school.



The structures look somewhat Brutalist (or even Communist), but the philosophy behind them is far kindler and gentler.



It's about maximizing city living while minimizing the impact on the environment—not necessarily to escape urbanity, per se, but do embrace it without sucking the life out of the land it's built upon or its denizens.



The first structure to be built at Arcosanti was the South Vault, at the top of the hill...



...featuring precast panels made of silt and colored in the mixture rather than being painted later.



It's now the centerpiece of a prototype of how a dense population could live together in a smallish space, walking everywhere they need to go and abandoning their driving habits.



Sunlight abounds, especially with the quarter-sphere semi-domes built for ceramics and bronze-casting.



Natural methods are used to heat and cool the residences, including harnessing the greenhouse effect and taking advantage of the late-day breezes and microclimates that occur on the property.



As daylight waned after taking the last tour of the day, it was time to retire to "Camp"—a motel-style row of a dozen rooms with concrete floors and huge picture windows looking out at the mesa.



When you spend the night at Arcosanti, you can roam about the property as you please without a guide and observe how the light and shadows change the arches and crescents and circles and spheres. In the summer, it's quiet—it could accommodate as many as 500 people, but it doesn't.

Not yet, anyway.

But the people who do share the space are convivial, sharing cafeteria-style meals in the dining hall and leaving their doors and windows open for the breeze, the view, the socializing, and of course the windbells.

I hoped to encounter one of the critters the staff had warned me about, though I shut my door tightly when I went to bed, as instructed. I heard neither scratching nor roars, only the pitiful cry of a peacock, looking for a partner, long as the night wore on.

To me, this was the opposite of futurism—a way of stepping back in time when earthen materials (mud, adobe) were all you had to choose from, and you couldn't go very far for any other supplies.

Will we ever return to those days? Sometimes it seems like we've passed the point of no return.

And we seem to have given up on any inkling of utopia, too. It's just became... passé.

Maybe we've just gotten too used to being miserable, we've given up on ourselves and the planet, and we've got to just make peace with what we've got.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: The Design of Living at A-Z West
Photo Essay: Under a Desert Dome
Photo Essay: Llano Del Rio Company Colony, Abandoned

May 29, 2023

The Wrigleys' Timeless Gift of Timekeeping on Catalina Island: The Chimes Tower

In my last couple of visits to Catalina Island—the only developed tourist attraction in the Channel Islands archipelago off the coast of California—I've been trying to trace some of the remnants of the Wrigleys' time there.

But for all the looking I've done, there's been another clue to the Wrigley history on the island—and that can be found simply by listening

Every 15 minutes, you can hear the Westminster chimes of the Catalina Chimes Tower—a set of "cathedral chimes" (like those found at Westminster Abbey) ringing out from atop a hill. (They originally sounded four times an hour from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. — but now they're only between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m.)

circa 2021, with some Photoshop magic

August 03, 2017

Photo Essay: The Triforium, A Disco Spaceship Gone Dark

You might argue that LA has no real city monument like the Statue of Liberty, the Eiffel Tower, or Big Ben.

Sure, we have the Hollywood Sign—but, at best, it's a piece of vintage propaganda and nostalgia advertising a neighborhood that's inside the city limits of LA but doesn't necessarily define LA.

For decades, we had our City Hall and its pyramid-topped obelisk-like tower as our tallest monument, but that's long since been surpassed by several other skyscrapers, including the U.S. Bank Tower and the Wilshire Grand.

Besides, I don't know if anyone outside of LA—much less around the world—would even recognize our skyline, much less any of its individual buildings.



But right around the corner from City Hall is another monument—a much shorter one that's even less of a widely-accepted symbol of the City of Angeles.



It's both baffling and misunderstood—at times described as "three wishbones in search of a turkey," "The Psychedelic Nickelodeon," and "The Schlockenspiel." In fact, it's probably the most controversial piece of public art in LA.



It's the Triforium, a three-pronged, six-story public art piece that has been silenced since the 1980s and has stood inert for decades. Outfitted with dozens of incandescent bulbs, most have broken or simply stopped burning by now.



The last time anyone managed to flip the switch (about a year and a half ago), only about 20 percent of the lights turned on. And no one has tried since, since no one knows whether turning it on is even safe.



Originally intended as an interactive, technologically-advanced sculpture of sound, color, and light, it never quite reached its full potential. Laser beams were supposed to shoot out up into space from the top, blinking "Los Angeles" in Morse code to whichever extraterrestrial entities out there might heed the astrological beacon.



Back in 1975, when it made its debut in Downtown's Civic Center district, it was supposed to blow your mind. Instead, the disco-tinged chimes of the bell tower fell on the Southland with a resounding thud.



What its creator, mosaicist Joseph Young, originally intended for the kaleidoscopic, futuristic sculpture may have been too ambitious (or audacious) for its time, but no one got to see that intention come to fruition. It was never truly interactive. It could never have been considered kinetic.



So, while the Venetian glass prisms that light up from the inside are beautiful, even just when they catch the sunlight just right, they seem to have become most popular with the birds that roost there.



Apparently rats once found their way in, too, as did frogs into the surrounding water features (which have since been paved over). Who knows what's found its way into the time capsule that was buried directly underneath?!



The Triforium was a spectacular flop among art critics and city workers alike, who derided both the art and the artist—but it's important to understand that Joseph Young wasn't happy with it, either. As it was, the advances of the time just weren't advanced enough for what Young's vision of the future was. So, he ended up settling with what he could get, just to have the project—whose budget was already bloated—done and over with.



That included sacrificing a Moog synthesizer and instead using a set of 79 glass carillon bells (a perfectly antiquated method of making music!), custom-built by German-Swiss glassblower and musical instrument inventor Gerhard Finkenbeiner (better known for his custom version of Ben Franklin's "glass armonica" and for his mysterious disappearance in 1999).



In the 1980s, the City of Los Angeles—which owned and operated the Triforium, much to its chagrin—sold the bells at auction and replaced them with a digital carillon.



In the 1990s, the digital chiming bells were replaced by a CD player, whose musical selections went off the rails, foregoing bell tower classics for the pop hits of the time. So much for its retro-futurism.



The Sbarro's employees who worked across the way from the Control Room at the were tasked with turning it on and off every day probably had no clue that the Triforium was (and is) a musical instrument, meant to be played live. And that automating the musical selections would take the humanity out of it.



Today, the closed-off control room is a kind of time capsule of its own, with a positively ancient Teletype machine and its rolls of tape.



Located in an underground bunker, what's left in the room shows what was necessary to operate such a multimedia spectacle at the time...



...though much of it has been disabled...



...and the rest of it, removed by bolt cutters.



Thankfully, the Triforium didn't ruin Young's career working with tile, but the folly of this so-called "million-dollar jukebox" was so great that the artist hosted a "memorial service" for it just two years after it first opened.

Young never again ventured beyond the decorative arts—and especially not into technology.

I would argue that if the Triforium were to land on our modern art scene today, people would be lining up in hordes to witness—and capture—the flashing lights and colors beaming out of this cathedral of sound, music, and light.

Fortunately, I'm not the only one who thinks so.

In fact, this technological artifact has captured the imaginations of a new generation of art lovers—particularly those with an affinity for the quirky, the oddball, and the otherworldly—who are trying to not only preserve it but also to leverage four decades' worth of technological developments to make the Triforium do what it was always meant to do (but never got the chance).

Interestingly, two of the advocates of giving the Triforium a second chance are themselves musicians—members of the dance-pop band YACHT. They've said that part of what drives them is that they want to try their hands at playing the darn thing.

But beyond that, there's a real emotional connection to be had with an artist whose dreams were dashed and who died before interest in his work had truly renewed.

Maybe it's time for the Triforium to stop suffering from all the indignities of the last 40 years. But that means if it's brought back, it has to be done right.

Otherwise, we'll have to learn to love the Triforium as a static display of a rocketship-shaped belfry that's been grounded and muted, its lights of many colors forever extinguished in the night.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: To the Bell Tower
Appointment Viewing

December 06, 2025

Photo Essay: Holiday Bells and Whistles at the Bellagio Conservatory

This was my fourth time spending Thanksgiving in Las Vegas on a solo trip—and after taking myself out to dinner, I decided to head to the Bellagio for the Christmas display in its Conservatory & Botanical Garden.

I'd never seen the Conservatory displays at night—and I thought it might be a little less crowded, since Vegas itself is pretty quiet on Thanksgiving. 


August 25, 2018

Photo Essay: LAPD's Parker Center, Upon Its Imminent Demolition (Updated)

[Last updated 6/14/20 11:33 AM PT—info on completed demolition added]

I guess I'm fortunate enough to have not ever had any legal reason to visit the inside of Parker Center before its closure in 2013.



The Police Administration Building/Police Facilities Building, designed by Welton Beckett in the International Style, has come to symbolize the civil unrest and police abuse of minorities in Los Angeles...



...which came to a head during the Watts Rebellion of 1965, the East LA Walkouts in 1966 (for unfair treatment of Chicano students in the LA Unified School District), and the LA Riots in 1992 (in response to the "Not Guilty" verdict of the Rodney King/LAPD beatings).



No civilian ever wanted to go past any of Parker Center's 12 blue, tiled isolated columns and into the eight-story, reinforced concrete structure on official business.



But the post-war facility has probably attracted more than a few looky-loos who've identified its exterior from episodes of DragnetPerry Mason, or Columbo. And when it first opened in 1955, it sparked such interest among the public that the LAPD had to hire a full-time police officer just to give daily tours of the facility.


circa 2008 (Photo: jericl cat via Flickr, CC By 2.0)

I do wish I'd seen the Joseph Young mosaic mural, "Architectural History of Los Angeles" (a.k.a. "Theme Mural of Los Angeles") up close and in person, not just from pressing my face against the glass front doors last summer, when everything was locked up and the building had been denied status as a Historic-Cultural Landmark.


circa 2008 (Photo: jericl cat via FlickrCC By 2.0)

And now, with demolition seeming imminent (save some last minute Hail Mary), that 36-foot-long, six-foot-wide mosaic of 250,000 pieces in 50 different colors has been relocated from the reverse side of a pay telephone bank to off-site storage.



Some people would gladly see Parker Center bulldozed.



Its construction, which necessitated the eviction of a commercial district of Little Tokyo by eminent domain less than a decade after the Japanese internment camps of WWII, left a bitter taste in more than just the Japanese-Angeleno community.



And besides rioting and protests, Parker Center's ugly history includes its role in the OJ Simpson interrogations and its namesake, notorious hard-ass police chief William Parker. Though Chief Parker worked to abolish other forms of corruption within the force, if he didn't order it directly, he was at least complicit with the racist behavior of the officers under his charge.



Those who wish to preserve Parker Center—despite its gnarly associations—cite its exemplary Southern California Modernism style, it's towering presence in the open air, its influence over the civic center plaza layouts that would subsequently follow suit, and its public art.



In addition to the bronze sculpture on Parker Center's front facade and the lobby mosaic mural, there's also Sook Jin Jo's adjacent sculpture from 2009, "Wishing Bells / To Protect and To Serve."



The Korean-born artist has contributed pretty much the only reference to Japanese culture at the Parker Center plaza, with her tribute to the Japanese Buddhist tradition of ringing bells to dispel the desires that cause human suffering.

In this case, 108 bells and ribbons—featuring words contributed by the community—hang suspended from a central trellis, which is supported by nine cedar columns.

Technically, the sculpture is part of the LAPD Metropolitan Detention Center next door and not Parker Center, though the line of demarcation between the two isn't clear. Hopefully, this nod to the lost section of Little Tokyo will remain, despite what the wrecking ball does to Parker Center.

The plan right now is to replace the former police headquarters—which is considered outdated, reportedly having reached the "end of its service period" in the 1990s, though it was once so ultra-modern that Popular Mechanics called it "the most scientific building ever used by a law enforcement group."

In its place? A spanking new, exorbitantly priced office tower—a proposal that stings, particularly in a time when we've got homeless encampments a stone's throw away and more people in need of housing than we know what to do with.

Unfortunately, the arguments of whether to save or destroy Parker Center—and the resulting decision—have been emotional rather than pragmatic. 

And all that the Los Angeles Conservancy says it can hope for now is a delay of the destruction of the historic structure until the plans for the new building are approved—so as not to leave us with a gaping hole in the landscape. [Update: Demolition was completed July 2019 and we now have a gaping hole in the landscape.]

For more perspective on this issue, read "Should We Preserve Places We Would Rather Forget?" by Jonathan Haeber here.

And here's that Popular Mechanics article from 1956 in full:


Popular Mechanics, July 1956 via Google Books

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: LA's Oldest Standing Police Station
Photo Essay: The Triforium, A Disco Spaceship Gone Dark
Photo Essay: City Hall at Sunset (Updated for 2017)
Photo Essay: Lincoln Heights Jail, Closed to Public (Updated for 2017)