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April 22, 2015

Photo Essay: Farmers and Merchants, the Old Bank with Big Plans (Updated for 2020)

[Last updated 2/11/10 3:09 PM PT]

I don't know how I missed this place in the four years that I've lived in LA.



But as many times as I'd been down to the Old Bank District of Downtown LA, I'd never really noticed the Farmers and Merchants Bank on Main Street.



Farmers and Merchants has since become a local chain of lending institutions, but it all started when Isaia Hellman founded it in 1871...



...and in 1904 built landmark...



...in the style of a Roman temple.



It still stands as an early example of the "temples of finance" that were popular in the early 1900s...



...despite having officially closed for business in the 1980s.



Since then, the Farmers and Merchants Bank building has been used for special events and, of course, film shoots.



Many of the original elements are still in place in the main banking room, and fortunately haven't been covered up...



...including some ceiling lighting fixtures...



...a balcony with original Victorian-style railing...



...and the tile floor.



The space that visitors get to see on the main level during events is vintage, and well-kempt...



...but there's a dark basement underneath...



...where the safe deposit and vaults are...



...that's a bit more sinister...



...and not maintained for the public eye.



The basement isn't exactly modern, but it's vintage to the 1980s era when the bank closed, with drop ceilings, wood paneling...



...and functional carpeting that seems to have trapped that "old building" smell.




But the original vaults are still down there...



...with everything reminiscent of banks of yore...



...standing stoic in unlit rooms, their contents removed...



...their drawers unopened.



It's super-creepy down there and dark hallways that appear to have been blocked off actually extend way beyond what you'd think the footprint of the building above is.



Some demolition has already happened down there, walls partially torn down in a way not indicative of vandalism.

There are big plans for the Farmers and Merchants Bank, after all: The forthcoming Old Bank District art museum will be built on top of it, and will incorporate three other buildings at that corner of 4th and Main. And rumor has it that the actual bank itself will be converted into a dining destination below the new museum, like many of the other old bank buildings in Downtown LA that are now restaurants or clubs.

I grew up in an era when banks like this one managed to coexist with small branches at the strip mall and drive-thru tellers with their pneumatic tubes – way before ATMs or Coinstar machines which have made banking more about convenience and less about how much money you actually have (or need to borrow). Banks have gone the way of post offices and train stations and churches, sacrificing elegance for accessibility, commerce, and efficiency.

At least we can find a way to put this lovely building to good use without destroying it.

Update: The Main Museum opened up in 2016 and abruptly closed in 2019. It never expanded into the Farmers and Merchants bank or its roof. Its former location is slated to be taken over by ArtCenter DTLA.

Related Post:
Photo Essay: Bank of Manhattan Clock Tower, Queens, Abandoned

April 19, 2015

Photo Essay: A Bird in the Hand (Updated for 2019)

[Last updated 1/12/19 9:27 PM PT]



It's been a long time since I held a bird in my hand.

When I was a sophomore in college, I placed into the notoriously difficult Vertebrate Zoology class without first having to take the 101 introductory course, but I ended up getting only a 2.0 at the end of the semester despite having been an A+ student in high school and getting at least a 3.0 or 4.0 in all of my other classes.

I was in a little over my head, because I don't have an affinity for all vertebrates. I failed the fish chapter after a mystery illness rendered me bedridden for three weeks. But when I got better and the professor assigned me to go capture a chickadee by the beaver pond, observe it for a few weeks, and try to prove (or disprove) some hypothesis I came up with myself, I discovered my surprising connection to the avian sector of vertebrates. It was easy for me to open the cage door and clasp the chickadee between my hands gently, despite its flapping wings. And once it was nestled between my palms, it seemed to be comfortable there.

I almost decided to be a scientist after that experiment, but instead I only minored in Biology (with a focus on animal behavior) and flitted about various other pursuits that I was good at and that interested me.

Since then, I've obnoxiously flirted with every bird I've seen in the wild, or in captivity at a friend's house, pet store, zoo, or botanic garden. I got up before the crack of dawn to hang out with some falcons, one of which perched on my arm.

But I hadn't held one, in a long time.


circa 2019

Until today.



A few vestiges of LA's agricultural past still remain, hidden from view: Compton's Richland Farms, and some surprisingly rural plots of land in Reseda, one of the first suburbs in the San Fernando Valley.




circa 2019

Most of Reseda's ranches were subdivided in the post-war mid-20th century, except the properties originally zoned for agricultural land use.




circa 2019

If the plot was never sold, but instead handed down or willed to a beneficiary – like Drew Lobenstein – it can still have horses, chickens, and, it turns out, over a thousand pigeons.



Many of the coops date back to Drew's childhood (40 or 50 years ago), though he's built some more to accommodate his pigeon-breeding hobby, which has become much more than a way to pass the time.



These pigeons – which he has selectively bred and cross-bred to be more and more fancy – have become a way of life.



It all starts with the common street pigeon, familiar to all. We had plenty of them flocking around the bus stop in Downtown Syracuse, scattering with the Centro buses, vagrants, students, and business people that intermingled at the intersection of Salina and Fayette streets. In 1995, London's Trafalgar Square was overrun by pigeons, which became as much of a tourist attraction as they were a nuisance. Because many people consider pigeons a negative presence in the urban landscape – "flying rats" instead of what they really are, blue rock doves – London has done its best to eradicate them in the 21st Century.



But elsewhere around the world, pigeon keeping is enormously popular, and breeding the pigeons that are considered "fancy" can be extremely lucrative for those willing to part with their prize-winning birds to international collectors willing to pay a high price.



And all of these specially-bred pigeons, like the Lemon mutation (a racing homing pigeon), come from that feral rock pigeon.



Pigeons are known to be incredibly hardy animals, surviving for days without food or water, and some traveling long distances up to hundreds or even thousands of miles. Because of this, military forces all over the world deployed carrier pigeons to deliver critical messages, and decorated them with medals for their war contributions. Unfortunately, though once an (overly) abundant species in the U.S., the passenger pigeon (a kind of carrier pigeon) is now extinct.



But these fancy pigeons are a bit more delicate than those out in the wild, or those who have been put to work. They are bred for their physical attributes – color, plumage, eyes, beaks – and are asked to merely show off. Some of them aren't really even meant to fly, and won't try to escape when you open their cage doors.



Does that make them happy in there? Condemned to a life of experimental breeding? How would we know? If they are fed and protected from predators and their cages are cleaned, is that enough?



The good news is, many of the fanciers whose lives revolve around pigeon keeping do it for the love of the pigeons. Some, like Drew, won't even sell certain special pigeons that could have been their biggest money-maker (though they will sell the ones that don't turn out quite right, with the wrong color or an extra toe).



The fanciest of the pigeons is perhaps the Jacobin, known for its distinctive feather collar, reminiscent of the high-collared costumes of Queen Victoria – who herself was a fancier, and raised a number of racing pigeons which she employed in military activities.



But not these pigeons. In ideal conditions, at least for best in show purposes, most of the plumage that surrounds their heads actually creates a hood, sometimes entirely obscuring their vision.



Although some of the selective breeding techniques have been more or less perfected, Drew is constantly experimenting with new variations – an endeavor which sometimes takes years. And because he's essentially pioneering scientific experiments in avian genetics with classifications of characteristics which are undocumented outside of Drew's own brain, sometimes the results aren't necessarily a mistake, but...unexpected.



In an attempt to create frilly feathers, the resulting progeny also had a curled beak, claws, and nails.



I got to hold two of the full-grown birds, surprising their caretakers a bit with my comfort and confidence that they would not fly away. These doves are a lot bigger than those little black-capped chickadees from my college biology class, but they'll stay put if you hold them in the right spots and don't squeeze them too hard.




circa 2019

I know this instinctively. I feel like we understand each other (*even when they're three weeks old, like the Turkish Tumbler chick above).



And although human babies make me incredibly nervous and anxious – those little alien parasites that burst out of your womb screaming and then hate you for giving birth to them – nothing felt more natural to me than cupping a seven-day-old pigeon chick today, nuzzling its beak, stroking its spiny newborn quills, and keeping it warm while it was outside of its nest.



This is not a monster, though it's a genetically-modified hybrid resulting from a process that Dr. Frankenstein would probably admire. This is just a baby entering the world.

He doesn't know his parents are different from each other. He doesn't know he's different. He doesn't even know how special he is.

He can't fly yet, and he can't run away. But his heartbeat is strong, and he nestles comfortably into the hands that hold him.

And thankfully he'll never know what it's like to live out on the street.

Update 2019:


circa 2019

Since attending this even nearly four years ago, it's consistently held a special place in my heart and has been one of my favorite things I've done since moving to LA eight years ago.

So, when I had the opportunity to go again, I didn't hesitate.

And this time, I got to actually hold a white dove and release it to the sky, where it joined its flock in circling above the ranch, in tighter and tighter swirls until they descended back to their coops.

It was thrilling and bewildering. We still don't understand how they do it.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Falcon Flight
Compton's Hidden Agricultural Riches: Richland Farms
Elegy for the Flightless Bird
In Captivity

April 17, 2015

EVENT: Escape to Pasadena - with Obscura Society LA

Announcing...

A day trip exploring the architectural, historical, and cultural treasures of the City of Roses!

Join me on a day-long excursion to the crown jewel of the San Gabriel Valley, Pasadena – a town which boomed in the early 1920s thanks to a small group of settlers from Indiana, and subsequently a flock of Midwestern industrialists who fled harsh winters in search of milder weather and idyllic scenery.



Stop #1: Pasadena City Hall
In a wink to its midwestern beginnings, Pasadena's City Hall most recently has posed as city hall for the fictional town of Pawnee, Indiana on NBC's Parks and Recreation, but it made its first appearance on the silver screen in 1940, in Charlie Chaplin's satire The Great Dictator. A docent will lead a tour of the recognizable exterior of the Mediterranean Revival Style and Spanish Colonial Revival building, and if council isn't in session, might be able to give us a peek inside.



We'll stop by the adjacent Jackie and Mack Robinson Memorial to learn about the two brothers who spent their formative years in Pasadena, and later made sports history by breaking the color barrier in athletics in two very different ways.



Stop #2: Pasadena Playhouse
Next we'll take a short walk to the Pasadena Playhouse, a Mission Revival theater from 1924. Shockingly on the forefront of technology for a legit playhouse, it was responsible for launching and operating one of the first TV stations in Southern California, KTTV, and trained technicians that went on to work at other TV stations and even the Air Force. With a rich history that includes performing Shakespeare's entire canon for the first time stateside, The Playhouse has cranked out so many Hollywood stars such as Gene Hackman and Dustin Hoffman, it earned the nickname "The Talent Factory." On our docent-led tour, we'll go behind the scenes, backstage and into their green room and library, and explore other secret and hidden corners of the historic landmark.

Stop #3: Lunch at The Pasadena Star-News Building
Join us for a casual, no-host lunch at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary School's Technique Cafe, located in the former headquarters of The Pasadena Star-News, a newspaper that made radio history. We'll get to eat food prepared by actual Le Cordon Bleu students in a historic setting.



Stop #4: Wrigley Mansion / Tournament of Roses House
A short drive away to the west sits the former home of chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr., now officially the Tournament of Roses House. Situated along "Millionaire's Row," the Italian Renaissance mansion was one of Wrigley's six homes away from his Chicago home, purchased in 1914 and gifted to the City of Pasadena in 1958 specifically to house the Tournament of Roses, home of two of Pasadena's longest-standing traditions – the Rose Bowl and Rose Parade – and organizers of the infamous chariot races which once supplanted the annual New Year's Day football game.



We'll enjoy the restored house interior, Rose Parade memorabilia, and the garden which includes more than 1500 varieties of camellias, annuals, and, of course, roses.

If you think you're ready to discover the treasures of "The Crown of the Valley," be warned: you may never want to leave.


Related Posts:
Photo Essay: The House of Chewing Gum and Roses
Photo Essay: Gamble House, Pasadena
Photo Essay: Castle Green Open House, Old Town Pasadena
Photo Essay: Where Old Meets New at Caltech
Photo Essay: Pasadena Doo Dah Parade 2014