I've been hiding the past couple of days. After all that talk of refusing to hide in my apartment upon my return to New York, here I am hiding nearly all weekend.
I find myself simultaneously understimulated and overstimulated in New York. When I do leave my apartment, I feel that it needs to be for a big adventure or, at least, a big all-night-long party - that simply going to the gym and the grocery store and Madison Square Park just isn't enough. I spend days speaking to no one, neither in person nor on the phone, and then when I do find someone to talk to or someone who insists on talking to me, it's all just too much.
After a late night with Michelle on Friday night, I spent most of Saturday hiding in my apartment until I could drag myself to the Meatpacking District to catch a lazy sunset on The High Line. Once extracted from my apartment, I didn't want to go back, so I wandered into Rodeo Bar for a snack and a quick happy hour drink. One seat available at the bar, mine. I noticed a man to my left with wild gray hair, refusing a fork and pulling out a set of chopsticks, which he drummed on the bar erratically, perhaps drunkenly, but still, professionally. I imagined him an aging East Village rocker who'd wandered too far uptown and stopped in to get his bearings. I watched him out of the corner of my left eye.
His order arrived - a small plate of extra-crispy onion rings - and the bartender asked if he wanted hot sauce. "You got Grey Poupon?" he asked and, surprisingly, they did.
At first, he used his chopsticks to pick up the onion rings, both large and small, which seemed terribly genteel for a place that encourages you to throw your peanut shells on the floor. Then the chopsticks were dipped in a highball glass, swirled feverishly, jettisoning ice cubes out and all over the bar. Chopsticks down, hands start working. Fingers tear apart onion rings, peel the battered coating off, dip in mustard, throw in air, pick back up. When plate is empty, forefinger and middle finger scoop up the remaining mustard, to be licked off between mutterances.
My eyes wide, spying and hoping to remain unnoticed, I tapped out a text message and sent it to Twitter. In the back of my mind, I was thinking it could serve as evidence if something terrible were to happen. I was terrified he'd been watching me too.
When the bartender refilled his drink, my eyes grew even wider and more worried. His first drink a sangria, there were still wine-soaked pieces of fruit in an otherwise empty glass when a new red wine arrived. He mixed them together in one glass and then transferred to another, sloshing the mixed drink back and forth, angrily. He was still muttering, but I couldn't quite make out the words: a few f-bombs, all accusatory, an attack.
The bartender came back over and asked if she could get him anything else, and his demeanor switched. His hands stopped shaking. His gestures were ginger and once again genteel. He did not growl when he said, "No thank you, miss, just the check."
My God, what was I sitting next to?
I kept my eyes focused on my own drink, on my own phone, purse, person, waiting for him to find a reason to turn on me. I thought I was safe when the bartender ran his credit card and gave him the slip to sign, but he didn't sign it right away. He examined the yellow carbon copy carefully, closely, holding a votive candle up to it. He threw that receipt down and picked up the black and white one. The bartender was ringing someone else's order up when the man to my left, with his gray hair and his bony hands, hoisted the Bic pen like the chopstick before it, and smacked it into the votive as though crashing into a cymbal, sending the candle across the bar and wax flying into the air and onto the bartender.
I didn't think my eyes could get any wider.
The bartender turned around, her tattooed sleeves bulging, and she picked up the candle. She started to ask what had happened, and then she saw my face. She looked at my neighbor at the bar and said, "Did you just throw this at me?"
"Why no, miss, I would never do that. Why would you think that?"
She looked at me. "He just threw this at me, didn't he?"
I blinked my eyes in affirmation.
"You threw this at me!"
He was protesting desperately now, pleading his innocence. "I didn't do it! Why would you believe her? She's obviously got something against me!"
I sank into my seat like a victim on the witness stand, scared of what might happen if I told the truth, scared of what might happen if I didn't. I offered no explanation, only the slightest nod when the bartender would ask me again if he threw it.
Of course, whether he was drunk or high or crazy or lonely or deranged, this guy went totally ballistic. He started saying that he was a Christian monk and offering the bartender and her manager religious literature. His flailing arms were getting closer and closer to me as I inched towards the couple on my right. He told the bartender that she had gotten sucked into my "game," and that he didn't understand why she had gone along with my "program."
After a lengthy debate as to whether or not he would sign the bill and what he would or would not pay for, he finally retreated. As he walked away, I spotted his gray, flannel, belted tunic - a bit more peasant than monk. I wondered if religion had driven him crazy or just kept him that way. I wondered when the crazies in New York stopped being entertaining and started being really terrifying, in a city where anything can and does happen, where your problems are no worse than others' and nobody hears you scream over the sirens, traffic, and bar chatter.
He left and did not return, and I tried to console myself with another drink. I was worried to go home alone, even to walk the two blocks around the corner, past the waiters at Mexico Lindo who always wave at my comings and goings. The fear that has been keeping me inside my apartment was now keeping me out of it.
After a minor scuffle with another drunken patron, I eventually did leave, saying goodbye to the bouncer who'd come to my rescue, and walking home alone. I spent all day locked in my apartment Sunday until embarking on another late night, and then hiding again yesterday and today.
Will I be able to leave and go do something tomorrow? Will I talk to anyone? If I do, will I be able to handle it?
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September 08, 2009
September 05, 2009
Photo Essay: The Highline, The Magic Hour
I've been following The High Line for several years, since I first took a pre-construction tour of it during Open House New York. The first completed section has been open to the public for a couple months now, but I hadn't seen it in daylight yet, only at night. I decided to brave the crowds today and go check it out in the late afternoon, when the sun's angle casts long shadows and an orange glow on everything - a time of day I call "The Magic Hour."









Related post:
Photo Essay: The High Line at Night
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Related post:
Photo Essay: The High Line at Night
Help me become a blogger in Antarctica - vote here!
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September 04, 2009
Photo Essay: Abandoned Warehouse, Tivoli Bay
We came across an abandoned warehouse - which looked like a barn from the road - on our way to kayak in Tivoli Bay recently.

front entrance

The rotting roof looked unstable, but I wagered it wasn't going to come down if I simply tiptoed across the large room, sunlight beaming in.



The walls were completely covered with a graffiti mural, colors both primary and neon.

After walking to the back of the warehouse, I realized we were actually on the second floor, and that there was a floor downstairs and a whole other wing of the building behind us. Though tagged with graffiti as well (albeit less), there was no getting in there or down there safely or without the complaints of my companions who explore less and worry more.

I was surprised to see and hear no birds in the rafters, especially considering our proximity to the water. There were only a few signs of life there, besides the graffiti: a cigarette butt, a plastic chair, some broken glass, and the overgrown trees that have thrived from a rainy summer, and are taking over the land they once claimed as their own.
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front entrance
The rotting roof looked unstable, but I wagered it wasn't going to come down if I simply tiptoed across the large room, sunlight beaming in.
The walls were completely covered with a graffiti mural, colors both primary and neon.
After walking to the back of the warehouse, I realized we were actually on the second floor, and that there was a floor downstairs and a whole other wing of the building behind us. Though tagged with graffiti as well (albeit less), there was no getting in there or down there safely or without the complaints of my companions who explore less and worry more.
I was surprised to see and hear no birds in the rafters, especially considering our proximity to the water. There were only a few signs of life there, besides the graffiti: a cigarette butt, a plastic chair, some broken glass, and the overgrown trees that have thrived from a rainy summer, and are taking over the land they once claimed as their own.
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September 02, 2009
A Liberated Walk
I've been reticent to leave my apartment, much less go exploring on my own, since getting grabbed in the park a couple weeks ago. But with back-to-school weather setting in, bright sunny days with a cool breeze, I just couldn't stay inside any longer. So yesterday I hooked my pepper spray onto my keychain, packed a liter of water, grabbed my camera and headed to Liberty State Park.
Most New Yorkers probably have only been to Liberty for the All Points West outdoor concert festival (or, as it became known this year because of the rain, "All Points Mess"). Tourists may recognize it as the land directly across from Ellis Island, and in fact connected by a small bridge that's supposedly only for construction and emergency vehicles. Liberty State Park is also close to Liberty Island and offers staggering views of both Miss Liberty herself as well as the Manhattan skyline and harbor. New Jersey families visit for Liberty Science Center and some open parkland.
So what's a Manhattanite like me doing there? I was primarily attracted to the two-mile Liberty Walk along the Jersey side of the Hudson, one of the completed stretches of the planned walkway that would extend from Bayonne to Bergen or, perhaps, beyond. Knowing that it would be bright and open, and not that remote, I figured it would be a good way to get some exercise somewhere I would probably not have to actually use the pepper spray.
Since I've been exploring the farthest reaches of New York City over the last month and a half, getting there didn't seem too daunting. A fifteen minute walk through Madison Square Park to the 23rd Street PATH station, four stops to Hoboken, switch to the Hudson-Bergen Light Rail station, buy $1.90 ticket while train pulls away without me, validate ticket, read about railyards on historical marker while waiting for next train, light rail arrives and drops me off at Liberty State Park station.
I arrive at Liberty State Park station, but I don't see a park. I see a Park-and-Ride, but no park. I follow signs to Liberty Science Center which is at least near the park, under a bridge, past a couple scientific public art installations, and across another big parking lot to the huge science center. I consider going in, but unlike most museums, the front entrance bears no signage touting their current programs or installations - only a sign warning visitors not to enter the building with any weapons. Remembering my pepper spray, I sniff at the door and head to the map of the park.
I don't see anything but the science center and the parking lot. I cannot see the Statue of Liberty or the Manhattan skyline or boats or water or bike paths or walking trails or anything. There are signs for the Holland Tunnel and the New Jersey Turnpike, and two busy streets. I keep looking up at my surroundings and back at the map, and they're not quite meshing. The star indicating where I am doesn't seem to be where I actually am. The shuttle bus, which runs every 20-40 minutes, is nowhere in sight. Impatient as I am, I set a course to walk down one of the roads towards one end of the Liberty Walk so I can at least see something.
I turn right down Philip Street and walk along the side of the road, weeds scraping my legs, traffic rumbling by making me shake and wince. I pass a police car pound and enter an area that's clearly private land and not state park, as I spot more and more trucks that appear to be making deliveries. Buses pass me and I assume they're the park shuttle bus, meaning I'm going in the right direction, but when I reach an intersection that opens up and gives me a glimpse of the skyline, it appears that I've been walking farther away from the shoreline than towards it. I could keep going, turn left down a truck-lined street, or go into the building I am now facing, put away the pepper spray, swallow my pride, and say...
"I'm lost." The receptionist looks up at me with big eyes.
"Oh, where are you trying to go?" she asks, wondering how I had wandered into the offices of Diversified Global Graphics Group in my light blue t-shirt, yoga pants, and sneakers.
"I just am trying to find...the water. The ferries? Anything like that."
"You want the Statue of Liberty?" Her question seems leading, as though she was really asking, "Are you a tourist?"
After a "yeah, sure, whatever" from me, she then asks if I am driving.
Sigh. "No, I'm walking."
"Oh... Are you alone?"
Sigh. "Yeah, but I'm fine, really." I don't believe myself but she seems to believe me.
She then sent me back to Liberty Science Center and told me to walk, like, behind it and look for the boats. "But it's kind of far..."
I assure her that I had already walked it once, and that I could walk it again. I thank her and exit as quickly as I can, out of embarrassment, out of frustration, and out of determination.
More walking on road shoulder, now a bicyclist or two, no more buses, I get back to Liberty Science Center more quickly than I expect, but upon my return, I still don't see any walking trails or even sidewalks. But I do see the skyline closer than it was before, and I think I spot the tips of some sails so I climb a lush, green hill behind the science center that opens up into, finally, parkland. Some satisfaction.
I spend the next hour or so looking for the Central Railroad of New Jersey Terminal, the semi-restored train station, and find it by the old ferry slips whose gates are chained shut. Far from being remote, this part of New Jersey is surprisingly close to Manhattan, where the Hudson narrows (thanks to the landfill that created Battery Park and much of Lower Manhattan's west side) before it spills out into Upper New York Bay. Still, the skyline looks surprisingly small. Maybe I've seen it too many times, from too many boat and ferry rides, from too many harbor islands and boroughs. A slight shift across state lines and it just looks...smaller.
I shift my gaze from the ferry slips to the CRRNJ depot, whose restored front lobby now serves as the ferry terminal. Looming in the back, 1860s-era train platforms are rusting, peeling, overgrown and gated. I press my face against chainlink, trying to focus my eyes to the dark abandoned trackage lit only by late afternoon beams of sunlight. Unfortunately, since I wasn't taking the ferry and my pepper spray would most certainly not pass the "airport-style security" measures the signs warned me of, that was as close as I could get. But I could see that the platform numbers are still lit up, announcing service to Point Pleasant and the Monmouth Race Track that has long since ceased.
As the afternoon wears on, my snooping must become more suspicious because I am greeted with "Can I help you?" when I walk up a platform to take a peek into some old train cars that are permanently parked outside the station.
"Oh, am I not allowed up here?" I ask, innocently, rehearsed.
When she tells me I wasn't, I apologize but note that the platform was not closed off and no signage indicated that I wasn't supposed to be there. At this point I've got only a few more minutes of picture-taking and eyeball-straining through chainlink before the shuttle bus arrives anyway.
I hear the cheers of my fellow bus-riders and I see the shuttle banking a curve towards us, marking the end of my day. After all the walking I'd done, I'd resigned myself to shuttling it back to the light rail station, understanding now why the shuttle was so necessary, and wishing that this train depot could take me deeper into Jersey, farther away from the city skyline, whisking me into a different time, some parallel universe where I don't have to be alone and I don't have to worry about being alone.
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August 28, 2009
Photo Essay: Coney Island, After Astroland
It's not what you think. Coney Island is still Coney Island. The parachute jump is still lit up at night. The big Wonder Wheel keeps on turnin'. The Cyclone rumbles away with the sound of cracking wood and the silent screams of the few dedicated passengers who ride it repeatedly despite their diagnosed whiplash conditions.
But Astroland hangs in the air, suspended in time between them. Some of the rides are gone, but many still stand, unlit, unbleached by the sun, unvandalized and unrusted. The yellow flag for Pony Rides still flaps on its strings. A cotton candy machine almost looks open for business. But they are all boxed up in a chainlink fence, with laser printer signs marking the area "CLOSED."
Still, barkers still bark. Seagulls still squeak.












And the El Dorado Auto Skooter was open, ready for me to bump my ass off.
After that, I was ready to dance the night away with Donna Summer at the final installment of the (free!) Seaside Summer Concert Series.
Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Coney Island's Last Friday of the Summer (September 8, 2007)
High On Coney Island (September 6, 2008)
But Astroland hangs in the air, suspended in time between them. Some of the rides are gone, but many still stand, unlit, unbleached by the sun, unvandalized and unrusted. The yellow flag for Pony Rides still flaps on its strings. A cotton candy machine almost looks open for business. But they are all boxed up in a chainlink fence, with laser printer signs marking the area "CLOSED."
Still, barkers still bark. Seagulls still squeak.
And the El Dorado Auto Skooter was open, ready for me to bump my ass off.
After that, I was ready to dance the night away with Donna Summer at the final installment of the (free!) Seaside Summer Concert Series.
Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Coney Island's Last Friday of the Summer (September 8, 2007)
High On Coney Island (September 6, 2008)
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August 25, 2009
No Suit Required
"We'll stop and see if the water is shallow enough to get out here," John said as he turned off the motor to his small boat, big enough to fit four and downright roomy for the three of us.
John and Edith both dipped their half kayak paddle into the water and chimed together, "Nope, too deep." We'd left John's kayak strapped to his Jeep's hardtop, favoring speed over rowing.
But when John pulled the ripcord to start up the boat again, nothing. Yank yank yank, nothing. No rumble, no put-put-put, no roar. Just John's arm slicing through the air, to no avail.
"Don't worry, we'll float back," he assured us, but I was less worried about getting back to his boat clubhouse in Lambertville, NJ than I was about not getting the chance to swim in the Delaware River.
"We'll paddle just to keep from bumping into things," John instructed, steering us away from rocks and trees and shore and other obstacles.
We all sat silent for a while, having chatted heartily on our way up-river and back at the clubhouse during the club's annual chicken BBQ, drinking John's homemade raspberry wine and flavor-injected chicken. We'd stuck around just long enough to see if we'd won anything in the raffle, and when we didn't, we'd made a beeline for the shore.
John tried a few more times to start the motor, but true to his word, we were floating pretty steadily downstream back to our starting point, so we weren't concerned. We approached a small tributary on the New Jersey side of the river, and heard a distant rushing waterfall before spotting a tiny, muddy beach ripe for anchoring in. In no time, my board shorts were off, pink-and-gray river shoes on, and I in the water, trying to not trip over the rocks and tree branches by the shore before the sharp dropoff that put me neck-deep in the river.
Whatever fed that waterfall made our little cove freezing cold, but once we swam out into the sun-exposed part of the river, the water warmed up by ten or fifteen degrees, at least. The stream that had taken us down-river to this point felt tremendous when swimming against it. We tried standing in it but were soon swept away. I tried swimming upstream and, paddling as hard as I could, only maintained my position, running to stand still.
John was fiddling around for a while, docking and anchoring the boat onto the beach, while Edith and I swam. When he finished, he approached the water, hands on hips, in his powder blue polo shirt and cargo shorts. Unlike us, he'd forgotten his swimwear, but standing knee-deep in the water, he declared, "I'm going in anyway."
Once he got over the submersion into the low temperature, John chatted away with Edith while I zoned out a little, practicing my floating technique, arcing my arms and legs back and forth snow angel-style as the current spun me around. I listened to the falling water, crashing not too far from where we were, and remembered visiting Chittenango Falls with Liz Green in college, taking off our tops and standing under the water that pounded on our backs, shoulders and chests like fists. We hadn't brought suits either, and drove home with the windows down in wet shorts and bras, our shirts dry and thrown in the backseat.
Or one summer in Syracuse, when a bunch of us tried to go to the beach just past twilight after it closed, and were summarily asked to leave by the police. Desperate to get in the water, we plotted to invade the local pool supply company, where the boyfriend of one of the girls in our group worked, and where we knew there would be functional floor model pools, fully equipped with filtration and chlorine. I hadn't brought a suit so I borrowed a pair of Maria's shorts and wore them unbuttoned with my satin purple bra, the only nice bra I owned at the time. We frolicked like nymphs in the water until a coming storm lit up the black sky above, ending our evening early.
Back in the Delaware River, I was glad we found our way into the water, especially having not jumped off Warren's pontoon during my last visit. And although riding the bull on our Lehigh River raft got me plenty wet the weekend before, I'd been itching to swim in something other than the hectic gym pool where hairless pro swimmers splash water in my face and leave me doggy-paddling in their wake.
Of course, swimming as a naturalist has its drawbacks. Something tried to bite Edith underwater (for once, not me), and John recoiled from something dastardly that turned out to be a big leaf. A big, brown, hard-shelled cicada went floating on his back past us on the surface of the water, still singing his song. And unfortunately for us, the sun was setting, casting its final magic hour rays through our wet hair and into our gleaming eyes as we squinted less but smiled more.
We let John give the motor one more try before emerging from the river ourselves, dripping with life and adventure, plopping our wet bodies back into the boat. John and Edith once again hoisted their paddles, led us downstream and maneuvered us back into John's docking area. With a quick wave goodbye to the fellow boat club members, we zipped away in the Jeep, kayak still teetering above, peering over the windshield and rattling over bumps in the road.
On the train ride back to New York, I scratched my hairline and a piece of the river fell onto my chest. Showing it to Edith on the tip of my forefinger, I urged her, "You have to shower tonight, look." But, hypocrite that I am, I didn't shower when I got home. Dirty hair and all, I slept in my bed coated in river, not wanting to wash it off of me.
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August 20, 2009
Naturalist Urban Wanderer Seeks Same
I haven't been too keen on leaving my apartment over the last week. No, it hasn't been the 90+ degree weather, or a daily hangover from too much partying. I just decided to take a little break from the city after a mildly harrowing experience in one of its parks last Friday.
People always tell me, "You shouldn't go there alone," but what am I supposed to do? I could have gotten grabbed in Syracuse or Connecticut or New Jersey or Philly or DC or Chicago or carjacked in LA. I'm not "safe" anywhere. At some point, I have to just suspend my disbelief and trudge on, alone or not.
Sometimes the solitude is what I'm looking for, like my many hours spent out in the desert while I was staying out in Joshua Tree. But often, other people really make the adventure so much better, like crossing a flooded bridge or climbing up a water tower in the rain. So I was really glad when Joe beckoned me to Long Island, to go explore the Gold Coast with him. Joe has always been a friend who's up for anything ("You want me to jump out of a plane? I'll jump out of a plane"), and it turns out he likes wandering around looking at stuff about as much as I do.
Along Long Island's north shore, you can find many Great Gatsby-era mansions and estates - some in ruins, some open to the public as museums, and some still private residences. We stopped first at Sagamore Hill, Theodore Roosevelt's home during his presidency until his death in 1919. My recent travels owe a lot to Teddy Roosevelt, who federalized conservation to found the National Parks Service, the Forest Service, and so on - preserving wildlife and wilderness, conserving natural resources, and giving people unprecedented access to the sites. (Edward Abbey would disagree with me here, but I think what Teddy did was a very good thing, otherwise man would have bulldozed, deforested, stripped, and harvested everything away.) It's fitting that his home was turned over to the NPS to operate it as a National Historic Site, giving hourly tours to families and seniors even in the summer, despite maintaining the house without air conditioning for historic accuracy.
Located in Cove Neck just outside of Oyster Bay, Sagamore Hill once boasted uninterrupted views of Cold Spring Harbor and Oyster Bay Harbor a half mile away, but neighboring houses planted trees for privacy, obstructing the view (and the breeze) from the rocking chairs on the back porch. Paying our respects briefly at the property's pet cemetery, Joe and I climbed down a short, woodsy nature trail to get down to the water via a boardwalk.

We stood on the shell-lined shore for a while, hands on hips, breathing in the sea air and listening to the rushing water. The shore is full of shells too broken for bare feet, barnacles that crunch underfoot like the West Shores of the Salton Sea. You can't hear the traffic there, just water, and boats from a nearby yacht club.

We had to eventually turn back and climb back up the nature trail, back out into the burning hot sun that soaked our faces and backs. We hopped in the car and headed down Northern Boulevard to Roslyn's Nassau County Museum of Art, whose outdoor sculpture garden is a sprawling treasure hunt of public art. From the stone dogs guarding the formal gardens to looming shapes and figures cast in bronze and reflecting the sun in mirrored glass mosaics, we investigated every weird thing we saw, sometimes not sure if what we were looking at was art or not.

There are a few nature trails there too, but we chose to stay out in the open as the sun's dramatic angle cast shadows of ourselves on the paved paths, and of the sculptures on the rolling green lawns that we climbed up and down in search of treasure across as much of their 145 acres as we could cover. One of the more puzzling sites was a tower, several stories high, covered in wood siding and accessible only through a locked door. Joe looked up and called out "Rapunzel?!" to no response.

Was it one of their 50 sculptures in the permanent collection or on loan? We suspected it was more functional than that, but for what? Protection? Espionage? (Ed: I've emailed the museum to ask.)
We ended our day on one of the quiet park benches in the garden, the sun no longer beating down from overhead, and a bit of that cool North Shore breeze rolling in. It was too late to squeeze a visit to Sands Point for more mansions/castles, but that's OK. It's nice to have a plan for another day of traipsing around the farther reaches of the city.
And it's nice to know I have somebody to do it with every now and then.
Help me become a blogger in Antarctica - vote here!
People always tell me, "You shouldn't go there alone," but what am I supposed to do? I could have gotten grabbed in Syracuse or Connecticut or New Jersey or Philly or DC or Chicago or carjacked in LA. I'm not "safe" anywhere. At some point, I have to just suspend my disbelief and trudge on, alone or not.
Sometimes the solitude is what I'm looking for, like my many hours spent out in the desert while I was staying out in Joshua Tree. But often, other people really make the adventure so much better, like crossing a flooded bridge or climbing up a water tower in the rain. So I was really glad when Joe beckoned me to Long Island, to go explore the Gold Coast with him. Joe has always been a friend who's up for anything ("You want me to jump out of a plane? I'll jump out of a plane"), and it turns out he likes wandering around looking at stuff about as much as I do.
Along Long Island's north shore, you can find many Great Gatsby-era mansions and estates - some in ruins, some open to the public as museums, and some still private residences. We stopped first at Sagamore Hill, Theodore Roosevelt's home during his presidency until his death in 1919. My recent travels owe a lot to Teddy Roosevelt, who federalized conservation to found the National Parks Service, the Forest Service, and so on - preserving wildlife and wilderness, conserving natural resources, and giving people unprecedented access to the sites. (Edward Abbey would disagree with me here, but I think what Teddy did was a very good thing, otherwise man would have bulldozed, deforested, stripped, and harvested everything away.) It's fitting that his home was turned over to the NPS to operate it as a National Historic Site, giving hourly tours to families and seniors even in the summer, despite maintaining the house without air conditioning for historic accuracy.
Located in Cove Neck just outside of Oyster Bay, Sagamore Hill once boasted uninterrupted views of Cold Spring Harbor and Oyster Bay Harbor a half mile away, but neighboring houses planted trees for privacy, obstructing the view (and the breeze) from the rocking chairs on the back porch. Paying our respects briefly at the property's pet cemetery, Joe and I climbed down a short, woodsy nature trail to get down to the water via a boardwalk.
We stood on the shell-lined shore for a while, hands on hips, breathing in the sea air and listening to the rushing water. The shore is full of shells too broken for bare feet, barnacles that crunch underfoot like the West Shores of the Salton Sea. You can't hear the traffic there, just water, and boats from a nearby yacht club.
We had to eventually turn back and climb back up the nature trail, back out into the burning hot sun that soaked our faces and backs. We hopped in the car and headed down Northern Boulevard to Roslyn's Nassau County Museum of Art, whose outdoor sculpture garden is a sprawling treasure hunt of public art. From the stone dogs guarding the formal gardens to looming shapes and figures cast in bronze and reflecting the sun in mirrored glass mosaics, we investigated every weird thing we saw, sometimes not sure if what we were looking at was art or not.
There are a few nature trails there too, but we chose to stay out in the open as the sun's dramatic angle cast shadows of ourselves on the paved paths, and of the sculptures on the rolling green lawns that we climbed up and down in search of treasure across as much of their 145 acres as we could cover. One of the more puzzling sites was a tower, several stories high, covered in wood siding and accessible only through a locked door. Joe looked up and called out "Rapunzel?!" to no response.
Was it one of their 50 sculptures in the permanent collection or on loan? We suspected it was more functional than that, but for what? Protection? Espionage? (Ed: I've emailed the museum to ask.)
We ended our day on one of the quiet park benches in the garden, the sun no longer beating down from overhead, and a bit of that cool North Shore breeze rolling in. It was too late to squeeze a visit to Sands Point for more mansions/castles, but that's OK. It's nice to have a plan for another day of traipsing around the farther reaches of the city.
And it's nice to know I have somebody to do it with every now and then.
Help me become a blogger in Antarctica - vote here!
To become a fan on Facebook, click here.
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