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February 12, 2016

Photo Essay: A Historic Oasis in the Valley of the Oaks

One of the stops on the Portola expedition of 1769—when Spanish explorers first arrived—was right here in the San Fernando Valley, in the LA neighborhood now known as Encino.



But at the time, it was an Indian village (a "rancheria," to the Spaniards) known as "Siutcanga" that the Tongvas (who the Spanish called "Fernandeños" or "Gabrielinos") had occupied for several thousand years.



Once Mexico gained control over Southern California, the rancheria became known as "Rancho Los Encinos," in reference to the oak trees that grew in abundance in the Valley.



Those that inherited the rancho from the Mission Indians that were granted it were unable to run it themselves, so in 1849, they sold it to a ranchero named Vicente de la Osa. 



De la Osa built a long, narrow adobe whose every room has at least one door that connects to the outside.



An excellent example of the basic Californio style, many of the adobe's adjacent rooms don't even connect to each other—which means you've got to go outside and then go back inside to move your way from room to room.



De la Osa established a small vineyard on his rancho, where he also raised sheep. But his real success came from renting rooms to people who were traveling along the El Camino Real.



After de la Osa died in 1861, his widow briefly took over operations of the ranch but then transferred the property to her daughter and son-in-law. When her daughter died in 1868, Eugene and Phillipe Garnier stepped in and purchased it.



At the time, in the early 1870s, cattle ranching had been more or less wiped out by three years of drought in the LA area, which created an all-out sheep boom—and the Garniers took full advantage of it, earning a reputation for producing the finest wool in all of Southern California.



But whenever there's a boom, there's a bust—and in 1873, the sheep business went belly up and the Garniers went deep into debt, along with the rest of the country who were hit by the nationwide depression.



Flat broke, the Garniers lost their ranch to auction in 1878, when it was purchased by their main creditor, a Basque named Gaston Oxarart. When he died in 1886, the ranch passed to his nephew Simon Gless (yes, a relative of actress Sharon Gless), who sold it to his father-in-law, Domingo Amestoy, in 1889.



This was the last time the 4,460 acre ranch was sold as a whole. After changing hands so many times, it's amazing that there's anything left to see.



And over time, it was split up and parceled out...



...like many of the other ranchos from the Spanish and Mexican land grants.



In 1949, the State of California purchased the last remaining parcel of land, thereby creating the present-day Los Encinos State Historic Park.



It was all thanks to the efforts of a local preservationist named Mary Stuart, who mobilized the local community to save the De La Osa adobe, Garnier House, sheepherders' shelter (later used as a blacksmith shop), and pond from developers.



Although Mrs. Stuart couldn't protect the abode from getting hit pretty hard in the 1994 Northridge earthquake, the damage from it ended up revealing historic details that had been long covered up: underneath the crumbling plaster lie frescos and walls that were painted to look like marble (during the Garniers' time).



All of the damage was painstakingly catalogued...



...and while much of it was repaired...



...portions were left exposed to show the "before" and "after" of their post-earthquake restoration work, for which the park earned a Governor's Award for Historic Preservation.



During their time here, one of the biggest contributions the Garniers made to Rancho Los Encinos was building a stone-walled pond in the shape of a Spanish guitar...



...at the site of a natural spring.



It's now filled with ducks, geese...



...and a few interlopers.



For a few coins you can get some bird feed...



...to lure some friends over.



Just be careful, because in case you were wondering, ducks do bite (especially when they're hungry).



Upon the shore of the pond was once the original location of the first El Torito tiki bar / Mexican restaurant, now the Lakeside Cafe.



The pond is fed by the artesian well, and it used to drain into a stream that drained into the Los Angeles River.



It now drains into the flood control system.



And while it's not exactly a "lake" per se, it provides a nice, natural body of water for nature and recreation—in a valley that's dry and hot for most of the year.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: In the Footsteps of the Pioneers
Photo Essay: A Day at the Rancho, A Step Back in Time
Photo Essay: The View from a Famous Mapmaker's Estate

February 11, 2016

Photo Essay: The Last Major Movie Studio in Hollywood

When you say "Hollywood," what does it mean?

Hollywood Boulevard? The Hollywood Hills? The Hollywood Sign?

Or is it the culture—perhaps even the attitude—that's come to be known as "so Hollywood"?

At some point, Hollywood ceased to be where movies and dreams are made.

You see, most of our movies (and TV shows) now are actually not shot in Hollywood, but somewhere else within the 30-mile studio zone—be it at one of the remaining movie ranches in the San Fernando or Santa Clarita Valleys, Universal City (Universal Studios), Burbank (Warner), Rancho Park (Fox), or Culver City (Sony).

There's just one major Hollywood studio that's actually in Hollywood, and on the same property where it originally opened: Paramount Studios.



February 10, 2016

A Pasadena Mansion Plays the Role of Plantation

It was nice to find out that the Fenyes Mansion in Pasadena was chosen as the setting for part of Beyonce's new music video, "Formation."



After all, Greystone Mansion in Beverly Hills seems to get all the wedding and film shoot bookings.



Closed for three years for interior and exterior restoration, the Beaux Arts mansion reopened to the public in 2012.



Although it poses as a Southern Gothic plantation straight outta New Orleans in the new music video...



...it was actually custom built in 1905 for Dr. and Mrs. Fenyes along Pasadena's "Millionaire's Row."



It was designed by architect Robert D. Farquhar, also of the William Andrews Clark Memorial Library and Beverly Hills High School.



Tucked away behind and maintained by the Pasadena Museum of History, the Fenyes estate isn't usually top-of-mind when it comes to LA's mansions...



...but, of course, given its proximity to Hollywood, this isn't the first time it's been caught on film.



It was first used as a filming location in 1912 for D.W. Griffith's When Kings Were the Law, but it was also used in The Social Network, Newsies, and even The West Wing.

One thing's for sure: It is not just another mansion along Millionaire's Row. Dr. Fenyes was a medical doctor, but he was also an entomologist—and he maintained an "insectorium" in the gardens where he could further his studies.

The house stayed in the family for four generations, having been passed down from Dr. and Mrs. Fenyes' only daughter, Leonora, and then to her daughter Babsie, who married a Finnish diplomat in 1946. It subsequently served as the Finnish Consulate for 17 years, which explains the adjacent Finnish Folk Art Museum in an anachronistic Swiss chalet.

What does any of this have to do with contemporary pop music, Louisiana, or politically-charged racial protest?

Well, nothing.

But the houses in LA are actors, just like the people. They can play any role—with the right dressing, lighting, and camera angles.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: The House of Chewing Gum and Roses
Photo Essay: Gamble House, Pasadena

February 09, 2016

Photo Essay: Royal Hawaiian Motel, Abandoned and For Sale (Circa 2011, Updated for 2025)

[Last updated 5/13/25 12:40 AM PT—Unfortunately, the Royal Hawaiian buildings were demolished in Spring 2025. As of May 5, 2025, the signs were still standing (scroll to the bottom of this post to see updated photos).]

[Updated 1/6/20 8:18 PM PT—added Pike's info]


Baker, CA is a pitstop town. It always has been. It was created in the 1930s as a stopover point for crews heading to and from the construction site of the Hoover Dam, and now it serves mostly tourists on their way to and from Vegas or Death Valley.

Usually, if you're getting out of your car in Baker, it's just for some Alien Fresh Jerky, souvlaki at the Mad Greek Cafe, or to snap a photo of the World's Tallest Thermometer (which may or may not be working). It's hard to imagine anyone ever staying the night in Baker.

But people have.



And some of them stayed at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.



I swung by back in 2011 on my birthday road trip to Vegas, back when I was trying to cram everything into every weekend.



The abandonment of the place was delicious enough...



...but I was also drawn in by the Polynesian setting, as passé as it may be.



It's hard to find info on the motel, which was still standing—and vacant—as of this time last year.



Previously operated as Pike's El Rancho Motel and Cafe, by the late 1980s it was owned by a local couple...



...and much of the 2003 movie The Big Empty takes place at the Royal Hawaiian and Baker, CA.



Having originally opened in 1957, it was still open for business in 2006, judging by the terrifying Yelp reviews.



Either the desert has not been kind to this old place....



...or it was already in really bad shape when it closed in 2009, no longer able to compete with Vegas casinos.



It looks frozen in time circa the 1960s.



The forecourt is quite grandiose...though it has a bit of the feeling of company town accommodations, like Death Valley Junction.



This is the type of place I probably would book a room from, if it were still open.



I mean, this place has everything...



...palm trees...



...a pool out in the back...



...its own water supply...



...reclining chaises...



...as well as other patio seating...



...and vintage signage.



It's nice and quiet for your Baker staycation...



...but the shuttle can also take you around to see the local attractions...



...as soon as the mechanic finishes his repairs.

A vintage postcard for Pike's (circa 1930s or '40s) advertises that it's also fire-proof and air-conditioned, with glass-door shower stalls.

And it's for sale!  [Update 1/6/20—the listing has expired and no archived link is available.]

I don't know why I didn't post these photos until four and a half years later, but now that I have, I've got a hankering to go drive back to Vegas...

Update 2025: 

 
This is what the site looks like now, after the buildings have been demolished.


Sad that it declined so quickly, and that it couldn't be saved.