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May 15, 2014

Photo Essay: Sugar Sphinx and Her Attendants Sweeten the Abandoned Domino Sugar Refinery

I'd long been fascinated with the hulking Domino Sugar Refinery on the Williamsburg Waterfront in Brooklyn...



...but had missed any chance of getting inside...



...until now.



The occasion was the opening of a not-so-subtle art installation by sculpturist Kara Walker...



...whose centerpiece is a sugar-coated large scale sphinx-turned-mammy.



She is surrounded by "her attendants":



...young black boys working in the sugar trade, also made of sugar, carrying baskets of sugar products.



They are melting.



Even on opening day, they drip...



...and sweat in the unseasonable heat.



They exude brown sugar, molasses, with a sweet, sticky stench.



Like her sugar brigade...



...this Marvelous Sugar Baby is melting, too...



...covered in 160,000 pounds of sugar donated by Domino.



She is 75.5 feet from her front paws to her rising rear and 35.5 feet high, and, for the moment, she dominates the space of the abandoned 1880s factory.

The entire exhibit runs until July 6, but by nature, it's temporal and evolving. Will it even last that long? Or will the sculptures become consumed by the factory that cannot get rid of its sugar deposits, no matter how much you power-wash the floors?



Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Abandoned Domino Sugar Refinery, Before Demolition
On the Waterfront: Domino Sugar Refinery
Photo Essay: Abandoned Sugar Factory, Betteravia

May 13, 2014

Photo Essay: Abandoned Domino Sugar Refinery, Before Demolition

I can't recall what party I had been invited to or heard about years and years ago while living in New York, but I'm left with a sense of regret that I'd had a chance to get inside the Domino Sugar Refinery on the Williamsburg Brooklyn waterfront once before.

And now, non-designated, non-landmarked portions of it are being demolished, and the remaining pieces are part of a plan for a new multi-use development that will involve new residential towers rising up, dotting that side of the East River like so many others have done along Kent Street and up into Long Island City.



Before leaving New York, I'd skulked around the fenced-off exterior of Domino's Brooklyn Refinery, managing to document some of the areas...



...which are already demolished.



This weekend while back in NYC on a brief visit...



...I got the chance to get up even closer to the abandoned plant...



...to examine the exterior details...



...of this building which had served as a landmark...



...and a beacon for me...



...having lived in Brooklyn for seven years...



...and seen that rooftop "Domino" sign from the river...



...or maybe from across the river.



All those memories feel like dreams now. I can't remember the details.



So, in my waking state, when I finally got to go inside...



...I documented it.



The space had been cleaned up for an event...



...and not even its first public event in recent years...



...so I didn't get to encounter it in its purest, decrepit state.



Safety lights have been installed. Floors have been power-washed.



Most of the machinery has been removed...



...leaving only a few vestiges in their places...



...rusting, peeling...




...dripping.



Light pours through the windows...



...but you can still find some dark corners.



Despite the clean-up efforts...



...it smells like sugar in there.



Not the sticky, sweet, white, refined sugar of the icing on your cinnamon roll...



...but a deep, dark, dank, pungent funk of raw sugar refined into molasses.



You wonder why the smell is so strong after all of this time...



...and then you start to discover it...



...actual sugar...



...on every ledge...



...in every corner...



...tucked away into door pockets...



...falling down from somewhere above.



Liquified sugar drips from the ceiling, down the walls.



No surface is safe.



It blackens your hands...



...and slicks the soles of your shoes.



I only got to see one part of the entire complex, which is now pretty much an empty shell...



...but I got in there, finally, before it changed too much, before its sugary legacy has all but disappeared.

Stay tuned for photos from the art exhibit that made my entry possible...

Related Posts:
On the Waterfront: Domino Sugar Refinery
Photo Essay: Abandoned Sugar Factory, Betteravia

May 07, 2014

EVENT: Murphy Ranch Hike with Obscura Society LA

I don't do many LA hikes more than once...



...but when I do...



...it's usually to Murphy Ranch.



After all, it took me at least three visits just to find all of the ruins I was looking for.

And now, since I know the creepy, abandoned area pretty well, I'm inviting people to come hike it with me for my next event as field agent for Atlas Obscura.

From the official event listing:



Join Obscura Society LA as we step back in time to explore the ruins of an attempted Nazi utopia – right here in the Santa Monica Mountains 
If Hitler had ever made his way stateside, he would have been welcomed by a group of his supporters living in deep seclusion in a compound mere miles from Brentwood.

Join Obscura Society field agent Sandi Hemmerlein (me!) as we explore Murphy Ranch – a famed, creepy hiking destination, with a sordid history of Nazi sympathizers and art colonists, hidden deep on the canyon floor of the Santa Monica Mountains. 
Now entirely tagged with graffiti, the various structures of the compound (cisterns, water tanks, a burned-out machine shed, and the main power house) were all meant to sustain as a Nazi holdout for years in isolation. 
We'll start our journey at the wrought iron gated entrance of this would-be "Hitler Bunker," designed by famous African-American architect Paul Revere Williams, and work our way through the 50 acre property, where a four-story mansion was also planned. On the day after the bombing of Pearl Harbor, the United States federal government raided the compound, shutting down their command center and the Nazi utopia that never was.
Now city-owned, this secluded parcel of land has been home to wealthy ranchers, immigrant bohemians, local artists, and even the famous novelist Henry Miller. Wildfires have ravaged the Rustic Canyon area on several occasions, but many of these ruins remain ripe for exploring. 
Notes for this adventure:
  • Murphy Ranch is located in a remote canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains with no services and no cell phone service.
  • We will email out exact meeting location to all attendees closer to the event date.
  • Street parking is available, but limited and in a residential area. Please be respectful of the neighbors, and carpool if possible.
  • We will be hiking about 3.5 miles round trip at a moderate pace. Please plan accordingly with water, snacks, and proper shoes.
  • This is a reverse hike, meaning we will descend into the canyon first and then climb out of it when we exit. Please reserve your energy for the uphill climb at the end!
  • There are a couple of different route options, but this hike will require a significant amount of stair-climbing, as well as paved and dirt trails.
  • Be prepared for heat! Please bring water and sun protection (sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, etc.).
  • Dog-friendly! Just be sure your pup can climb up and down stairs, as well as bring proper clean-up equipment.
I don't usually post detailed directions to a lot of the places I explore, but I'm looking forward to helping a group of intrepid explorers find where the good stuff is at one of my favorite places in LA.

Related Posts:
Photo Essay: Murphy Ranch in Rustic Canyon
Photo Essay: Rustic Canyon's Twisted History
Photo Essay: The Lost Ruins of Rustic Canyon
Photo Essay: Solstice Canyon


May 04, 2014

It Got Worse

My recent post, "It Just Gets Worse," created a fair amount of alarm amongst my friends and readers.

Then again, it provoked a surprisingly large outpouring of "me too"s.

Because the truth is, it does get worse. It can always get worse.

Sure, sometimes the pain subsides. You come into some money. You start a new romance.

But most of these things are fleeting. You can be sure that things will always get worse.

Some may argue that the glass is half full, that the worse things are fleeting, and that everything will get better.

To those optimists, I say: things will get better, or they won't. Is this, right now, the worst it can get? No? Then things will probably get worse.

I think the assumption amongst those alarmed is that I wrote that post in a time of crisis, on the verge of doing something about it, but in truth, it had been percolating in my brain – and in my heart – for a long time. I just chose to write about it – to announce it publicly – in a time when things actually did get worse, and I abruptly and unexpectedly found myself with no source of income.

It wasn't a jump-off-a-bridge crisis. I mean, I've been down in the dumps before. I've been broke before. I've been brokenhearted before. I get it. I know how bad it can get.

Given that, I was terrified (and terribly curious) of what was yet to come.

And then it got even worse.

The worsening arrived in the form of a driver following me too fast, too close, perhaps too distractedly, ramming into me when I'd stopped abruptly to avoid hitting the car in front of me, who'd also stopped abruptly.

So, in saving the car in front of me, I bore the brunt of the impact, which was so ferocious, my assailant's hood popped up, front end shattered, innards smoking. In hitting me, he pushed my stopped car into the stopped car in front of me, ping-ponging me back and forth enough to warrant two medical diagnoses of whiplash and post-traumatic brain syndrome.

I don't really remember the impact itself, only the sound. The next things I remember were bringing my arms down from over my head, where they'd apparently popped up to help me duck for cover, and bringing my foot back down on the brake, with which it had lost contact at some point. A bruise that emerged on my shoulder indicated that the seat belt must've snapped my body back into place.

As the other two drivers pulled over to safety and got out of their cars, I was behind the wheel, unable to move, unable to process what had happened to me. I heard the passing cars crunching on the debris that had shattered across their path at the point of impact behind me.

I thought, "Oh my God, not this." I was already maxed out in my life. I couldn't deal with one more thing. A car accident was one of the worst things that could happen when I wasn't working.

The two other drivers peered at me through my windshield, asking me if I was OK. After all, I hadn't moved my car yet. I'd just burst into tears.

"I don't know," I sobbed.

All I knew was that I'd survived. And I wasn't relieved about it.

Having called the police, I finally pulled my car over out of traffic, and I wondered if I'd finally hit bottom. I'd declined paramedics for lack of medical coverage, but I knew I wasn't well. I was probably in shock. I was definitely dazed. I didn't feel so good, and I was pretty sure the physical pain was going to get worse.

And then I realized: I'd looked Death in the eye, and Death had laughed at me.

Even Death didn't want me.

Not yet, anyway.

In the aftermath of the accident, it's clear that that particular incident could've been a lot worse. I could've been a lot more hurt. My car could've been a lot more damaged.

And as I now deal with car insurance and repairs and medical examinations and physical therapy and prescriptions to ease the pain, as I try to unscramble my brains, undizzy my head, unhurt my neck and  unblur my eyes, as exhausted and confused as I am, I know this is not the worst it can get.

How many more hits can I take?

To that, I say: We shall see.

Related Posts:
It Just Gets Worse
The Forever Now
A Kick in the Head (Parts 1-4)