After our calèche ride through the oasis in Tozeur - during which our driver invited me to sit in the front seat of the carriage and take the reins while he spoke to me in Italian and I somehow understood - one of my tour mates noticed the poinsettia in my hair and asked me about it. I explained to her that it was a parting gift from my calèche driver.
"Oh, you seem to be getting all the Tunisian men on this trip," she said.
"Yes," I smiled, "I'm leaving a trail of broken hearts behind me as I travel across the country."
Our tour director Aileen, an Englishwoman who is partnered with a Tunisian and has been conducting tours for the last ten years, chimed in, "Tunisian men haven't got hearts."
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